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SANITARY LAUNDERING 

= OR - 

The Story of "Through the Wash" 

By Tudor C. Josselyn 



A Semi-Scientific Treatment of Clothing 

IN USING 

Chemicals, Water, Soap, Wringing, 
Rinsing, Bluing, Starching, Drying, 
Ironing, Etc. ^ ^ ^ ^ 

BESIDES OTHER 

Valuable and Useful Information 

The Importance Of Which Is Necessary To Know 
IN ORDER TO HAVE CLOTHES PROPERLY CLEANSED 



Price, One Dollar. 






<^ 



THE TURO ASSOCIATION, 
CLOSTER, NEW JERSEY, 

PUBLISHERS. 



Copyright, 1916, 

by 

Tudor C. Josselyn. 

All riuhts reserved. 




;i.A420547 



PREFACE 

The object in writing these few pages has been two- 
fold ; first, to awaken in the consciousness of those who 
may read them a realization of the dangers in which 
they are daily living in their liability of contracting 
some one of the many forms of disease that may be 
brought to their homes from some laundry; and second, 
to put into simple and easy language a means of know- 
ing how to best treat and clean all kinds of washable 
fabrics, and if possible, to offer a better method for do- 
ing laundry work by actual measurements of all 
chemical substances that are used and that too, without 
injury to the clothing while being put through the wash. 

The criterion by which the purity of clothing has 
been judged, and is judged, is that of WHITENESS, 
never realizing that from within that bundle of white- 
ness may be hidden the seeds of disease, sickness and 
death. 

Visiting more than a thousand homes it was found 
that ignorance was the key to the real situation in re- 
gard to the possibility of a laundry being a disease 
breeding and disease lurking place; and, nowhere was 
responsibility to be laid, therefore the necessity of each 
individual home becoming a law unto itself and there- 
by change their method of laundry procedure from 
that which now prevails. 

The information herein contained, in many instances, 
was furnished to the author by housewives, who had 
done some thinking, and is here given as the result of 
their experience, wdiile other matter is the result of 
observation, experiment and study. 

T. C. J. 



THE DOING OF LAUNDRY WORK. 

To most people, the doing of laundry work, to say the 
least, is a disagreeable, and, generally speaking, thank- 
less task; so much so that one can hardly be blamed for 
wanting to ''get the whole business" out of the way in 
the shortest possible time. Conscious of these condi- 
tions when "wash-day" comes around with its hard 
work — drudgery, it is to most women — when compelled 
to stand, in a back-breaking position for hours over the 
tub with its noisome odors, subjected to the extra heat 
of summer and again to the colds of winter, it can weU 
be understood how the sole object would naturally be 
"to get it out of the way and over mth, just as soon 
as possible." 

No part of laundry work can be hurriedly done with- 
out its being slighted. There is, in connection with it, 
just so much to be accomplished and a corresponding 
amount of time and labor is absolutely necessary, in 
order that the work shall be properly done. It must 
ever be kept in mind that a washing hurried, is a wash- 
ing slighted and that, in a slighted wash, one should re- 
member that they will be obliged to use clothing^ or 
wearing apparel in which particles of dirt, perspira- 
tion, odors, etc., may have come from some other per- 
son's clothing. 

Clothing, thoroughly washed and rinsed, gives to one 
a sense of rest, is cooler in svimmer and warmer in 
winter. The higher demands of nature are for "con- 
stant cleanliness" for the full physical enjoyment of 
every person and, in order that every one may live that 
complete enjoyment, he should never live, through care- 
lessness, indifference or through lack of appreciation, 
beneath our daily privilege of thorough cleanliness. 

5 



LAUNDRY MACHINES AND APPLIANCES. 

It is almost the universal testimony that whatever 
help and assistance women have received into the house- 
hold, in the form of machines or labor-saving devices, 
that such help has not been of her seeking but through 
the exertions, influence and advice of men. 

In nearly every department of man's labor his 
strength, time, health and money are conserved by the 
daily use of many kinds and varieties of machinery. 

Everywhere, generally speaking, it has been found 
that women have been and are exceedingly slow in 
availing themselves of the use of labor-saving devices 
in her field of work; this being especially true where 
servants are employed. Right here it raay be said that 
there is a measure of excuse for lack of progress or up- 
to-date household conditions in many households, due 
to the fact that, most servants or those emploj^ed by the 
day, object and often strenuously, to anything l3eing 
used or brought into the house that will lessen their 
number of hours of work as, in such cases, the pay of 
such laborer or help is correspondingly reduced. 
Where such conditions are allowed to prevail the one 
party who should direct her own household affairs, 
gives way to the dictation of those whom she would 
have serve her, with results that are always unsatis- 
factory, owing to kitchen conditions and surroundings 
being controlled by the help. 

CLEANLINESS. 

The great and imperative duty of cleanliness, not 
only in the home and in our daily surroundings, but 
more especially in one's clothing, was never better 
understood by all well informed people than at the 
present da v. 

6 



Comparatively speaking, it is but a few years since 
the subject of Microbes, Germs, Bacilla?, etc., was first 
brought to the attention of the general reading public : 
but today, most people have, to some extent, heard of 
the existence of these health-destroying and disease- 
breeding animalcules that thrive all about us, that they 
are to be found in special places in well nigh countless 
numbers, but almost wholly within the surroundings of 
dirt or filth in some one of its various forms. 

No subject has been given more careful attention 
from the scientific world than has been given in the 
search after micro-organisms ; and the beneficial re- 



to 



suits to the whole human race are almost be3'ond con- 
ception. 

As a result of these extensive and costly researches 
made by science, the greatest and some of the most pro- 
lific sources of sickness, disease and death have been 
discovered and, in a large majority of instances, ade- 
quate preventives or remedies have been provided. 

The destruction of these micro-organisms should be, 
not only a public necessity but a pi'ivate duty as well 
It should be an individual, a personal obligation, in- 
cumbent upon all, for the preservation and mainte- 
nance of both public and private health. 

The extermination of these disease-producing factors, 
however, has not and is not receiving the thought and 
attention that should be given to so important a sub- 
ject, by the great masses of people who, we regret to 
say, are too easily inclined to let old and established 
methods or routine, no matter how antiquated, drift 
along without protest, so long as they, themselves are 
not personally incommoded. 

In this respect, ''What is every body's business, is 
no body's business," consequently, in most places the 

7 



inclination among all classes of people is to shirk in- 
dividual responsibility. 

In our own private homes, pride argues, "There can 
be no fear of deadly germs underminmg our health," 
and so, in blind and fancied security we become a silent 
prey to ill health, all unconscious of the fact that our 
health is slowly but surely leaving us, the actual cause 
undetected, unknown, not even suspicioned. 

The necessary, preventive steps for the avoidance of 
disease in many instances are easy, inexpensive and 
effective but, lacking appreciation, are not made use of 
by the individual, largely owing to indifference to their 
real importance and, through this lack or w^ant of a 
proper understanding of the real dangers that may lie 
hidden all about us, in these health and life destroying 
elements, nothing is done for their elimination. 

National and State governments, however, both at 
home and abroad, have reached a realizing sense of the 
great importance of the subject and as a consequence, 
have a regularly equipped service, devoted exclusively, 
in many instances, to the maintenance of health and 
healthful conditions, not only in public but in private 
life as well, and millions of dollars are spent annually 
for this purpose. There the best appliances, special 
machinery, tools, implements, etc., are made use of and 
improvements are being brought daily into use that 
not only cleanse but thoroughly disinfect and deodor- 
ize surrounding conditions or may be applied to 
clothing as well. These improvements, brought by the 
aid of science have done much to increase the general 
average of life. 

A thorough disinfection of all clothing that is worn, 
if it could be done while going through the wash, w^ould 
tend to the improvement of the health, comfort and 
happiness of each individual member of the family. 

8 



The subject of cleanliness, beyond the everyday 
sweeping, dusting and the weekly wash, has received 
little or no attention toward any betterment, judging 
from the remarks made by many housewives. 

Soap and water, as is well known, are chiefly relied 
upon for cleansing clothing; but to what extent the 
prevailing custom, in the average run of families, really 
relieves the clothing of all forms of dirt, perspiration, 
infection, microbes, etc., is a matter of consideration 
that is quite foreign to the management of the general 
household; yet, it is through this very lack of compre- 
hension, of proper attention and thought upon the sub- 
ject that one's health may become impaired and the 
seeds of sickness find a fertile field that is easy of at- 
tack. 

Whenever clothing has been used by sick or diseased 
persons, the mere use of soap, hot water and the wash- 
board to cleanse them is, to say the least, an extremely 
doubtful expedient as such cases require special treat- 
ment. 

By the use of linen provided at hotels, public resorts, 
in railway trains, steamboats, at public dining tables 
or restaurants, people using same are exposed to what- 
ever of contagion or infectious disease there may be 
lurking in the linen supplied, if there has been lack of 
right cleansing. 

Where cleanliness is maintained, refinement invari- 
ably prevails. 

DIRT. 

Of the multitudinous forms of dirt that abound 
everywhere, it is only necessary here to consider those 
prevalent and peculiar to or pertaining "To the wash." 

To the lay public there are but three chief kinds of 
dirt to be considered in connection with their laundry; 

9 



(lust that comes from the atmosphere, dirt that comes 
from soft substances, such as soil the hands when com- 
ing in contact with or in handling matter and prespira- 
tion. 

Dust and perspiration combined, plus that upon the 
clothing coming in contact with extraneous substances, 
is the main reason for putting clothing through the 
wash. 

Household linen, as a rule, needs much less atten- 
tion than that required by bodily linen, for the reason 
that through the pores of the body there is a steady 
stream of effete matter pouring into the under gar- 
ments, in the form of gases, acids, ]i<|uids, fats, etc., that 
fill the meshes of the clothing to overflowing, and it is 
within these bodily secretions that millions of animal- 
cules spring into life, if the clothing is allowed to go 
too long without proper cleansing. 

These secretitious substances become poisonous when 
exposed to contamination, either by infection or con- 
tagion and prove a source of unhealthful conditions ; a 
menace to all surroundings and at such times are liable 
to prove unhealthful or injurious to any one coming in 
contact with them. It is these conditions that are of 
the most importance and are the ones that should re- 
ceive careful attention while the clothing is going 
through the wash and it is in the ivash, and there alone 
that all possible disease-breeding conditions of clothing 
should be thoroughly cleansed and disinfected. 

It would be well if all clothing needing the wash 
could be regarded and treated as though requiring 
thorough disinfection by some simple and efficient 
jiieans. 



10 



HANDKERCHIEFS AND DIAPERS. 

Diapers and handkerchiefs are used identically for 
the same purpose — as depositories for exerementitious 
substances; but they do not, however, serve the same 
ends. The former is always handled with a great de- 
gree of care and intelligence but always by the hands 
of a more intelligent and enlightened person than the 
user; but, unfortunately, this habit, so early and in- 
nocently re(|uired in babyhood, in later years is made 
a perm'ent accessory and as the human being grows to 
maturity, this piece of infantile clothing is transferred 
and transformed, when it is known as "A handker- 
chief," and thereafter is raised to a higher position an(l 
carried in the pocket, ready for instant use in case of 
emergency but, unlike the former, the handkerchief is 
not kept out of the general wash but goes in with the 
table linen, tableclothes, napkins, etc. — bed linen, wear- 
ing apparel and so on: a more filthy, noxious, disgust- 
ing and pernicious piece of stupidity, as a habit or cus- 
tom, can hardly be imagined as occurring among the 
most uncivilized or unrefined peoples. 
, Again, it should alwavs be remembered that washed 
clothing IS NEVER ANY CLEANER but is always 
less clean than is the water from which it has been 
washed and rinsed. 

In the absence of a proper machine in which handk:^r- 
chiefs may be properly washed and rinsed a^^ "■ 
thoroughly disinfected in a hot steam, a good p^an is ■' 
follows: Into a pan of clean cold water ( + wo ^uarts. pu 
four teaspoonfuls of ammonia) put in th" handkerchie-'s 
and place over the fire and as soon as boiled, twenty 
minutes or more, wash out. For handkerchiefs in ordi- 
nary use, this length of time is sufficient, but when 
extra heavy usage of the handkerchief has been made, 

11 



tliey should be boiled eiglit or ten minutes longer in 
order to destroy the disagreeableness of their first hand- 
ling. Rinse in several waters and then they may be 
put in to go through the regular wash. 



LOCALITIES. 

There are localities that require a very different 
treatment of clothing from that given in other places, 
owing to the fact that the water in some places is always 
impregnated with chemical substances that affect it and 
in other places a sediment is constantly floating in it. 

The first matter of importance in a washing is to see 
that the w^ater itself is all right. Sometimes it happens 
that either hot or cold w^ater has an effect of causing the 
dirt to become more firmly stuck to the fiber of the 
goods. Water, in all such places needs doctoring, as 
well as straining, by the addition of an alkaline sub- 
stance to soften it. 



WATER. 

Water, everywhere, is used as the universal cleaner 
throughout the world, whether among civilized or 
savage peoples; but all ivater does not clean equally 
well, owing to local and sometimes to general conditions 
that abound. 

Some water is hard and some soft while in other lo- 
calities it is filled with mineral, vegetable, animal and 
other substances, such as gypsum, lime, silica and iron. 

Most water, to some extent is colored. Spring and 
river waters contain more or less iron in some form and 
when clothing is washed in it a yellowing of the goods, 
sooner or later, will gradually appear and it makes no 

12 



difference how much care is given or what preparations 
are used to counteract it, the only remedy will he an 
occasional bleaching. 

Water never remains steadily the same. It is always 
changing in hardness or softness or in its coloring, due 
to the impurities that are always to be found floating 
in it. 

It is upon the purity of the water that much of the 
success depends in doing laundry work. 

Colored water, or any water containing a sediment, 
should always be strained through one or more thick- 
nesses of canton flannel, before it is used in washing; 
the thickness of the cloth should depend upon the soiled 
condition of the water. 

All foreign matter contained in water, to a more or 
less degree, interferes with and frequently prevents the 
desired or expected action of either soap or soap- 
powders upon the clothing. 

To cleanse well, water to be used in washing must 
first be softened if it is hard, by the addition of either 
Ammonia, borax or soda or some reliable softener. 



HEAT. 

The expanding forces of heat, applied to clothing, 
saturated with water pushes apart the dirt particles; 
the heat causing them to swell, thus breaking up each 
tiny atom of dirt; or, in other words, crumbles the dirt 
in its expansion so that the dirt particles fall apart and, 
in so doing, let go their sticky hold upon the fiber or 
threads of the clothing, when the dirt may be easily 
washed or rinsed out of the goods, that is, taken up in 
the washing and rinsing water through which the goods 
are passed while going through the wash. 

13 



WASHING BY STEAM. 

In none of the steam laundrieS; so called, with the 
barest possibility, is washing of clothing done in steam, 
instead of in water. Steam is used, chiefly for moving 
the various kinds of machinery employed and it is also 
turned into the water when hot water is required for 
washing purposes; but steam is not directly used upon 
the clothing as a means of cleansing and purifying 
them. 

Steam is one of the simplest and most inexpensive 
of all purifying agencies. It acts Avith great effective- 
ness, and of all cleaners is most thorough, sure and 
(luick and as a sterilizer, is regarded of the highest 
value. Without in any way doing harm to the cloth- 
ing, it is the most powerful detergent known. Cloth- 
ing, subjected to the penetrating power of a saturated 
steam and to its great heat properties is thoroughly and 
efficiently cleansed. Steam is destructive to all forms 
of the low orders of life, to disease germs, to infectious 
diseases, etc., to which clothing may have been ex- 
posed. 

The use of steam is far preferable to any form or 
kind of disinfectant, when and where it can possibly 
be used. 

Steam, also, is the best, simplest, easiest, quickest and 
most acceptable method for cleansing all washable 
goods. Its use does away with the great wear and tear 
and strain that is put upon clothing while going 
through the wash and, when sufficiently steamed, a rins- 
ing in warm water removes all dirt and leaves the 
clothes soft, sweet and clean; and, besides, steam, even 
at a comparatively low temperature, is considered by 
medical experts as the very best disinfectant and is 
never injurious to the clothing (exceptions, see article 
on woolens). 

14 



The sanitary principal of steam, the hygenic prin- 
cipal o! great heat, the separation of the clothing, from 
the dirt that has already been washed out of the cloth- 
ing, and the theory of no rubbing, are features of the 
greatest value to every one having clothing to wash. 



STEAM FOR WASHING CLOTHING. 

As to whether Ciothin:? should be boiled or, for that 
matter, subjected to any great amount of heat, the 
theories of the average housewives are ([uite divergent 
and their practices equally so. 

"An experience," says Mr. L., "of more than twenty 
years, in washing clothing of all kinds and descrip- 
tions, has demonstrated that the coarsest and dirtiest, 
to the cleanest and finest of clothing, may be thoroughly 
cleansed and disinfected, when subjected to the process 
of forcing a saturated steam against and through the 
fiber of the clothing, and this too, without perceptible 
wear or tear upon even the most delicate of fabrics; 
thus doing away with all forms of j^ounding, rubbing, 
sloshing and jerking machines." 

' Some few concerns, salesmen and agents, in order to 
sell a certain kind of soaps, acids, powders, etc., tell 
their prospective customers that there is no necessity 
or need for boiling clothing. 

Clothing, to the inexperienced, careless or indiffer- 
ent observer may appear to be white and clean. It 
should be remombered, however, that whiteness is not 
always a reliable sign of cleanliness or purity. Cloth- 
ing not treated to the boiling process, from the very 
nature of things, cannot be thoroughly rid of all dirt 
and contamination as the microscope will testify, and 

15 



such clothing is not in the least sterilized or disinfected, 
the most important part of all the processes for getting 
harmful substances out of the clothing. 



DISINFECTION. 

^ The idea of regularly disinfecting clothing at the 
time of the weekly wash has, in all probability rarely 
ever engaged the serious attention of the womenkind; 
yet, throughout the civilized world, of late years, the 
subject of disinfection has been receiving the best 
thought of scientific minds. 

Regular and thorough disinfection is one of the most 
important, if not the greatest preventive of disease, and 
when taken in connection with the weekly washing of 
clothing, would add greatly to the health of every one, 
if all articles going through the wash could be 
thoroughly sterilized. 



PERSPIRATION. 

All clothing that is subjected to or is filled with per- 
spiration turns yellow in time; therefore, it is of the 
first importance that these exudations should be wholly 
removed from the fiber of the goods for the daily com- 
fort of the person for, this effete matter, filling the 
meshes of the clothing is a decided disadvantage to the 
wearer as it helps to smother the heat of the body and 
consequently surrounds the person with a disagreeable 
beat making one much hotter on a summer's day; while 
in the winter time matter allowed to remain in the 
clothing is a rapid conductor of heat away from the 
body, therefore making necessary more clothing in 
order that one may keep comfortably warm. 

16 



A thorough boiling or better still, steaming of this 
class of clothing and a thorough rinsing in warm water 
will remove these particles of dirt from the clothing 
better than any other process. The steaming process 
never injures the fiber of the goods and at the same 
time adds no foreign substance that must afterwards, 
in its turn, be washed out of the meshes of the cloth- 
ing. 

Where a stain has the appearance of iron rust which 
is often the case with this class of goods, use a solution 
of oxalic acid, one drop, to twenty drops of soft water. 

Perspiration also has a tendency to make the goods 
turn a dirty yellow which, if allov/ed to stand any great 
length of time will wholly destroy the usefulness of the 
goods for all future wearing. For another method of 
removal of this condition, see articles on ''A Yellow 
Color." 

BLEACHING. 

Bleaching at times is necessary in all laundry work. 
The yellow tinge, so often found in clothing, is more 
often due to bad soap or insufficient rinsing or to rins- 
ing in too cold water. When the yellowness has be- 
come permanent, recourse must be had to the bleaching 
process. 

A bleaching water is made from a number of sub- 
stances. The articles generally used are chloride of 
lime (used largely in laundries), sal-soda, javelle-water, 
borax, ammonia and turpentine. The use of borax and 
turpentine are favorably recommended for family use, 
owing to their being more mild than the other sub- 
stances. 

Ammonia is somewhat stronger than either borax 
or turpentine and in many places its use is preferable. 

17 



Soda is caustic and if used too strong and is not 
llioroughly rinsed out will cause the clothes to rot, that 
is to break away into small and larger holes, besides it 
is more than likely to discolor them. 

Javelle-water and chloride of lime are used in obsti- 
nate cases wdiere bleaching is required, but the article 
should be treated at once with ammonia-water in order 
to neutralize the strong effects of the acid, after which, 
the clothing should be thoroughly rinsed. 

Chloride of lime can not be recommended for bleach- 
ing purposes. Where linen is sent to some professional 
cleaners it is very apt to suffer all sorts of unfriendly 
treatment and it would sometimes seem that everything 
possible had been done to injure it 

Bleaching is more severe upon linen goods and all 
articles subjected to the process are short lived. The 
chemicals in common use are very apt to be exceedingly 
injurious to the fiber of the clothing. All laundries, as 
a general rule, are quite inclined to use strong chemicals 
in bleaching and, owing to the class of goods that goes 
to them, if they must be whitened, there seems to be no 
other expedient, in order to give the desired whiteness 
to the goods, nevertheless, as before stated, the whiten- 
ing and bleaching process is done at the expense of the 
owner of the goods; and again, by the use of powerful 
bleaching chemicals the work of the laundry is very 
greatly lightened and, what is of more importance, the 
desired appearance is given to the goods. 

A good bleaching water is made as follows : 
Into a pail of water (10 quarts) put three or four 
(according to strength desired) tablespoonfuls of 
caustic soda or borax (from our own experience we 
much prefer the latter as explained elsewhere in this 
work — article on Borax), and when thoroughly dis- 

18 



solved, put the article to soak for twenty minutes anci 
sometimes an hour may be necessary, according to the 
soiled condition of the article to be cleaned. 

As a rule, only a portion of the bod.y article will 
need to be subjected to the bleaching process, such as 
the edges of collars, collar-bands, cuffs, etc. 

Where there is profuse perspiration or where a per- 
son has been suffering from disease and the body exuda- 
tions are highly colored, then the bleaching of the whole 
garment becomes necessary. 

All sucIt goods as last described, however, should 
never be washed with other articles. Their cleansing 
should be separate from all other articles needing to go 
through the wash. 

A YELLOW COLOR. 

It is doubtful if the process of washing, in and of it- 
self, pure and simple, ever has a tendency to cause 
goods to become of a yellowish tinge. 

It is not so, however, with the ingredients employed 
to assist in cleansing clothing. Many of the substances 
used for the purpose of cutting or dissolving the dirt, 
at the same time set up a chemical action that firmly 
sets a dirt coloring or coloring substance, into the cloth- 
ing and this coloring generally remains permanent. 
To use any bleaching process sufficiently powerful ti 
remove this coloring Avould most likely severely injure 
the goods. 

Again, the yellow color of clothing is frecpiently 
traceable to certain kinds of bluing that has been used, 
contrary as this may seem to the almost universally un- 
scientific housewife. It is, nevertheless, a demonstra- 
ble fact; but, further back in the wash is the prime 
cause for this yellowing of the goods, which is due to 

19 



insufficient washing and a lack of proper wringing and 
rinsing out of the soap water. (See article on Bluing). 
Another yellow tinge, however, that is so generally 
found in white goods, comes from the excretions, almost 
wholly found in body-clothing. This includes sheets, 
pillow-cases, etc., etc., and all articles coming in con- 
tact with the person for any great length of time. This 
yellow tinge is more often found in hand than m ma- 
chine-washed goods because in the former case the 
wash-water is used at a much lower temperature. For 
the elimination of the yellowish tinge, see Article on 
Borax, also see article on Perspiration. 

TO KEEP CLOTHING WHITE. 

The chief reason why clothing becomes yellow in 
color is owing to its being IMPERFECTLY "WASHED 
AND RINSED. 

"In an experience of nearly twenty years," says Mi\ 
C, "I have personally given nearly five thousand wash- 
ings among families in the United States, from the At- 
lantic to the Pacific and from the Gulf to the Canadian 
border, and I have yet to meet that family or laundry, 
with very few exceptions, that will thoroughly rinse 
their clothing. Drying clothing in the sunshine, in the 
open air, is one of the best possible methods for keeping 
clothing white. 

WEAR AND TEAR. 

The true source of the chief wear and tear of wash- 
able fabrics varies greatly in different garments. 
Articles, such as collars, cuffs, handkerchiefs, bosom- 
shirts, etc., are more than three-fourths worn out while 
going through the wash. Some garments in their use 

20 



are but little worn. From an economical point of view^ 
it is of the highest importance to select a process foi* 
washing that cleanses most thoroughly, tciih the least 
amount of mechanical or chemical friction. 

Next in importance to a non-friction (no rubbing) 
washing machine, is the forcing through the fiber of the 
clothing, moisture at a high temperature. 

WOOLENS. 

The cleansing of woolen fabrics causes more anxiety 
than all the rest of the wash. This is due. to the fact 
that in washing woolen goods there is a general tendency 
to shrinkage. This feature is owing to the serrulation 
of woolen fiber and any process of rubbing as used in 
washing, will shrink the goods and no soap, powder, 
liquid, theory or plan can possibly prevent this shrink- 
age if the goods are rubbed on a washboard, rubbed be- 
tween the hands or in any machine that rubs or presses 
them together or rubs them between hard substances, 
the goods will lose in dimension and softness and gain 
in hardness and thickness. Lacking the serrated struc- 
ture naturally belonging to wool, no felting of goods 
could be obtained. These serrations are most numer- 
ous in merino wool, there being something like 2,000 to 
the inch and even in the lower grades of wool will be 
found 500 and more serrations to the inch. A single 
hair of wool, drawn between the fingers in one direc- 
tion is rough, and smoothe when drawn in the opposite 
direction, presenting a barbed feeling to the touch. 
This roughness is because all the barbes point upward, 
away from the root. In the washing of such garments, 
pressure or rubbing pushes more firmly the goods to- 
gether and forces interlocking of the hairs over the 
barbs which locks it together. Naturally these serra- 

21 



tions are so firmly cliitched that a permanent shrinkage 
of the goods has been produced so that even long wear- 
ing will not allow them to expand again. Thus, scien- 
tifically is accounted for the shrinkage of woolens which 
almost invariably occurs while they are going through 
the wash. 

In the absence of any proper machine for washing 
woolens, without shrinkage, see article for "Washing 
Blankets. ' ' 

Hand wringing for blankets is decidedly objection- 
able. Use a wringer as then the pressure will be across 
and lengthwise of the fiber. Wrung in this position, 
pressure will not cause a shrinkage. Woolens should 
never be twisted in order to remove the water from 
them. 

If woolens can not be properly wrung out it is better 
to hang them in a warm place and let them drain dry. 
This latter plan is not so objectionable if proper and 
sufficient rinsing has been done. 

Should there be soiled places upon the woolens, use a 
weakened solution of ammonia or borax water, the latter 
is preferable if it will take out the stains and it will do 
so in a large number of cases. Use with a cloth or brush 
before the whole garment is wet. Do not soak woolens. 

Another method is to first dissolve two large table- 
spoonfuls of borax in water and also dissolve sufficient 
bar soap to make one pint of soft water. Put these when 
dissolved into a tub of cold water and put in the 
blankets and let them remain ten or twelve hours and 
then rinse out in warm water and wring very slightly 
and hang to dry. This is a good formula for all 
woolens, flannels, etc., when they have been used but a 
few times and are only a very little soiled. 

If one wishes to whiten their woolens, either those 
for the bed or under garments, it may be done by using 

22 



peroxide of hydrogen, which may he had at ahy drug 
store. This should be diluted to about one-eighth its 
normal strength. This amount is for one blanket only. 
Have enough water to well cover and let soak over night. 
Very many people, however, think it much better to 
keep woolens always of a brownish color. This is done 
by using strained coffee in the last rinsing water, about 
one cupful of the coffee to four or six gallons of water, 
according to the desired color. 



BLANKETS. 

In washing a blanket, the first thing to do is to take 
it out into the open air and thoroughly shake and brush 
out all dust and dirt. If there are any soiled spots 
upon it (see article on woolens) treat these before 
wetting the blanket. Do not rub soap on the blanket. 
Right temperature is an important feature in blanket 
washing. Water . at about 110 to 115 Fahrenheit is 
about right. Water hotter than this is injurious to the 
fiber of the blanket and will soon make it of little 
value. Rubbing is injurious to any woolen fabric and 
causes shrinkage. S<iueeze the water out between the 
hands and by pressure upon sides and bottom of tub. 
For each blanket, use three and a half to five gallons of 
water. Use one-half pound of white soap, made into a 
soft soap and pour this into the water, not on to the 
blanket. Into this put two tablespoonfuls of ammonia. 
This is about the right amount of mixture for each 
blanket. If the blanket is very soiled, put in two table- 
spoonfuls of ammonia to each gallon of water. Blankets 
should be wrung only very lightly, should never be 
twisted, but if possible, put through a wringer, other- 
wise press out the water. It is much better to hang and 

23 



dry than to twist-wring them. Rinse until there is 
practically no coloring in the water. It takes time and 
much patience to do blankets well but it will pay in 
the better touch and feeling that is given to them. If 
there are a number of blankets to be washed it is better 
to do them apart from the regular wash, on a separate 
day when there is nothing else to be attended to. Keep 
in mind that woolen blankets, if subjected to too much 
heat or hot water will be injured beyond repair; also 
that washing soda or any form of lye is destructive to 
woolens. It is better not to dry a woolen blanket di- 
rectly in the sun's rays, yet dry it in the sunlight and 
in the open air. 

CURTAINS. 

Curtains are a most prolific gatherer of dust and dirt. 
Too many people are in the habit of washing their cur- 
tains only twice a year, in the spring and fall. This 
custom of infrequent washing, however, is a mistake for 
a variety of reasons, chiefly that dirt becomes grimed 
into the fiber, discoloring the material to such an 
extent that its original neat appearance is never after 
regained. 

When curtains are about to be washed they should 
first be placed upon the lawn or other suitable place and 
gently switched with a slender stick, thoroughly shaken 
and dusted with a feather duster. Should there be no 
convenient place out of doors, this cleansing of dust 
may be done in an empty room or, in cities, upon the 
roof of the building. If the dust is not first taken out, 
it will be very likely to color the fabric when it is wet. 

When the dust has been thoroughly removed, clean 
off all spots and soiled places that may be found upon 
the curtains, before putting into the wash. 

24 



Put a sufficient amount of water into a tub to cover 
the curtains. For each pail of water, put one teaspoon- 
ful of powdered borax and a sufficient amount of soap 
or sioap powder to make strong suds ; put in the curtains 
and let them soak from forty to seventy minutes, ac- 
cording to condition, and wring (not with the hands, 
but with a wringing machine) and carefully fold for 
the washing. 

Curtains should never be washed by any rubbing 
process, either by hand or in any rubbing washing ma- 
chine that pushes, punches or pounds them for fear of 
straining the threads, also the certainty of pushing or 
working the lines out of position or form, thereby de- 
stroying the pattern or possibly making bad rents or 
holes in them. Owing to the poor handling given to 
many curtains few of them hang with all patterns in 
the right shape due to their having been distorted while 
going through the wash, twisted out of position in the 
wringing and warped in the drying. 

Work the curtains up and down, with the hands, 
while in the tub. Never use a brush or board for such 
washing. Rinse carefully and dry upon the grass if 
convenient or, what is better, upon properly prepared 
frames. 

Spreading papers or a sheet upon the carpet and then 
pinning the edges of the curtains to the carpet, is a 
very good way to dry and stretch them at the same 
time. 

Use cooked starch with a very little bluing for cur- 
tains. Make a thick starch and with the hands work it 
thoroughly into the fiber. 



25 



TABLE LINEN, TABLECLOTHS, ETC. 

After all stains such as tea, coffee or fruit and the 
many other numerous discolorations to which a table- 
cloth is liable, have been removed, as per direction for 
using chemicals given in another part of this work for 
removing stains of different kinds (also see article on, 
"Camphor for Stains"), the cloth may be put through 
the wash in the regular way. Much of the annoyance 
due to a soiled condition of the tablecloth can be pre- 
vented by dipping the cloth in a thin solution of water 
starch, working it well into the fiber of the goods. In 
this way, each thread becomes enveloped with the starch 
and when dried serves as a protection and will prevent 
very many substances that ordinarily stain a cloth from 
discoloring it. Where the fiber is thus protected the 
cloth is much easier to keep clean. This dipping into 
the Avater starch should be done just before the cloth 
is hung on the line to dry. 

In order to avoid the cross seaming that is so often 
noticed in a tablecloth, it should be ironed as follows: 
Take a curtain pole of the right length, one about two 
inches in diameter, iron the edge of the cloth, iron on 
the right side, and as fast as ironed, roll upon the pole 
and continue the process until the cloth is all ironed. 
If one seam would not be objectionable, the cloth may 
be folded through the middle or cross-wise and com- 
mence ironing where the fold begins and roll on the 
poll as above described. A tablecloth, without a fold, 
is much admired by many and certainly is effective in 
setting off a well laid table. 



26 



COLORED GOODS. 

The washing of colored goods should be separate 
from all others. It is always well to ([uestion the fast- 
ness of all colors. 

For all light colored goods and those of delicate 
shades, put borax in the washing water as that helps to 
hold the colors. (See article on Borax.) 

The water should never be very hot for washing any 
colored goods. The alkali of soaps has a tendency to 
weaken the dies used in colored goods; therefore, it is 
well to dip them in a solution of salt water (two table- 
vspoonfuls to six quarts of water), 

Do not soak, boil or steam colored goods of any kind 
or description. Do not rub soap on colored goods for, 
if such practice is permitted, a few times only, it will 
certainly weaken the colors, no matter how strong they 
may be. 

Wash QUICKLY, in fairly warm suds-water, and at 
once, rinse in two, three or more waters and hang to 
dry. 

Goods of delicate shade or weak colors, should be on 
the line to dry within six or eight minutes from their 
first dipping into the water. Such care will fully re- 
pay one in the appearance of the goods and in the 
longer duration of the brightness of the colors. Do 
not dry in the hot sun as that will cause them to more 
or less fade. 

Prints, cottons, etc., on account of the poor colors 
used in them, should never be washed in very hot water. 
The weaker colored goods should always be put in the 
last washings. Water that has been used in washing 
flannels, if not too dirty, is very good for washing 
colored goods. 

27 



Colored goods are very likely to suffer from the use 
of disinfectants, Sanitas, however, may be used in the 
washing without injury. 

WASHING. 

In these days of improvement, that is, improvements 
for bettering the working conditions of men and women, 
by the aid of machinery, there is no excuse for any 
woman giving away her strength, vitality and life, for 
the benefit of other men and women as drudge or slave, 
over the washboard and tub; two things handed down 
from our ancestors and, I am glad to say, they are about 
the two worst, most uncivilizing things that have been 
inherited by posterity — ''The Rub of the Washboard." 
The mistress of ''The Washboard" never gets even pity 
and if the subject ever enters one's mind it is only as 
a disagreeable incident to modern ( ?) civilization, some- 
thing that must be endured by some (woman) one. 

Often, when a woman is advised to better working 
conditions in her household, for some unacountable rea- 
son she seems averse to making any changes that would 
vary her usual daily routine. It is this opposition to 
progress, this spirit of mistrust regarding the new, the 
untried, that too many women go through life's work, 
going on with the slow, laborous, timeworn, bad-smell- 
ing, health-destroying, sewer-like process which ought 
to have been rejected as unfit for any civilized people 
hundreds of years ago but, having inherited this task 
of drudgery, Bunyan-like she has never thought it pos- 
sible to ease her back of this load of sin that has been 
fastened upon it, far back of the "third and fourth 
generation. " 

As the sewing machine is the only modern, scientific, 
labor-saving, time-saving, money-saving, health-saving 

28 



method for use in the household for making clothing, 
so now, the use of a washing machine in the place of the 
out-of-date rubbing process, is the only means that 
should be allowed in any well regulated, well conducted 
home if they would be classed with people who are cap- 
able of being wiser today than they were yesterday. 

So little value is placed upon the subject of washing, 
by the general public that its practice is very gen- 
erally placed in most unskilled and unscientific hands. 
In fact, it is considered that any amount of ignorance 
or stupidity is quite sufficient to act as Superintendent 
over the wash-tub; consequently, "The Washerwoman" 
is allowed to remain supreme over her field of work 
"With none to molest or make afraid"; where science 
and education is eliminated, where health is liable to 
injury, where disease may be fostered. 

In the laundry, the clothing of the delicate and re- 
fined often lies side by side with that of the bum, and 
the stench and filth of the unclean mingles with the 
perfume of the rich. Garments, tainted and stained by 
disease may snuggle close, close to those that were of 
the purest kind. 

Up to the present time, with rare exceptions, the gen- 
eral, in fact the sole purpose of subjecting clothing to 
the wash has been wholly on account of its appearance ! 
There are, however, other features in connection with 
the wash that are of far greater and more vital im- 
portance and which makes the cleansing of clothing an 
absolute and frequent necessity for, besides the dust 
and dirt that is incessantly being collected or gathered 
upon the outer and inner garment, there is another 
source of contamination, that from tvithin the garment 
in the form of perspiration, fatty substances, gases, etc., 
etc., constantly oozing from millions of pores, into the 

29 



clothing and it is this source of contamination that 
should really receive the larger share of attention. 

Unless this animal uncleanliness is properly cleared 
from one's clothing, in time a low form of life will 
come to infest such garments and a consequent un- 
healthful irritant condition will envelope the person, 
and malodorous conditions arise that might prove em- 
barrassing, to sa.y the least. 

All such conditions of clothing should receive proper 
attention and treatment while going through the wash. 

There are a great variety of methods used that are 
supposed to cleanse clothing but in the minds of many 
it would seem that the fact of clothing having passed 
through water, that they had actually been wet, was 
sufficient reason for pronouncing them clean. Water, 
alone, however, will remove but a very limited amount 
of dirt and less contamination from clothing that needs 
the wash, particularly body clothing. 

Clothing, to have all the desirable qualities of clean- 
liness should be thoroughly sterilized or disinfected — 
deodorized while going through the wash, before being 
pronounced as fit or in a satisfactory condition for 
Avearing. 

WASHING MACHINES. 

A great variety of inventions, devices, etc , have been 
brought into use, ostensibly to lessen the hard labor of 
washing clothing, such as pounding, sloshing and jerk- 
ing and later w^ashing machines galore have been placed 
upon the market. The idea of economy, however, 
seems never to have entered into the consideration of 
would-be improvers of laundry conditions, the object of 
the construction of a washing machine being simply one 
of money-making impulse. The representations as to 

30 



what these so-called washers would accomplish were so 
far from the truth that the consecjuence has been to 
fill garret and cellar all over the land with discarded 
machines and at the same time to leave a prejudice, iji 
many instances, against any such labor-saving deviecj 
for women. These prejudices and other home condi- 
tions, fre(iuently act in preventing many women froir: 
even investigating a really good thing when presented ; 
but what is a far more important feature of the case, 
few women or men are capable of telling or judging 
of what really constitutes a good washing machine. If 
it is a machine, that seems to suffice with many. 

There are certain features involved and that are abso- 
lutely necessary to a good laundry machine and with- 
out which it is little or no better than the ancient 
method of w^ashboard and tub of our grandmother's 
day. 

These essentials are Economy In Operating — a sav- 
ing in time, an actual saving in labor required to 
operate the machine and, more yet, a saving and greatly 
lessening of the rubbing process which is so destructive 
to clothing of any and all descriptions. 

Knowing the hard work involved in washing, othei 
devices besides machines have come into vogue, such as 
the use of soaps, chemicals and numerous word-catching 
schemes, advocating washing done by merely letting 
the clothing soak for a time in their specially prepared 
compound and then wrung out. This is an easy method 
for either the laundress or housewife but as to how much 
the goods are really cleansed, is later told in the color of 
the clothing, after a few weeks of such washing and 
the revelations of the microscope when applied to the 
article in question. 



31 



MACHINE RUBBING OR HAND WASHING. 

Water in doing laundry work should be used as wariU 
as possible and it should be renewed frequently in order 
to maintain the required degree of heat. Clothing 
should be wrung out of the washing water and rinsed lu 
two, three, four or more waters if necessary, wringing 
between each rinsing, never pouring off; then when 
the rinsing water is quite clear, put the clothing into 
the boiler of hot suds-water and boil for fifteen or 
twenty minutes; then take them out of the boiler 
(clothes should never be allowed to remain in the water 
in which they have been boiling, as the dirt will then 
settle back into the clothing and give them a dingy c\\) 
pearance) and then rinse in two, three or more watera. 
Be sure to remember what has been said about wring- 
ing out of the clothes between each rinsing. 



RINSING. 

Too much cannot be said upon the subject of rinsing 
as it is of very great importance. In fact it is the mosL 
important feature of the whole washing, from begin- 
ning to end; yet, in many laundries and especially in 
the laudries of private families rinsing is that one 
part of department work that is, above all others, most 
thoroughly slighted, most carelessly handled and most 
slovenly done, most inexcusably neglected. 

When the rinsing has been slighted the results that 
are sure to follow is a yellow or grayish colored linen, 
streaks and black spots, because the cleansing ingredi- 
ents or compounds that have been used in the wash- 
ing have become thoroughly invested within the fiber 
and meshes of the clothing, and when the clothing is 
taken from the hot water and thrown into cold water, 

32 



many of these substances are at once congealed and 
stick to each little thread of the clothing. Soap, by 
this treatment at once hardens within the meshes of the 
clothing and must he remelted, before it can he gotten 
out. Under such treatment, by use of the microscope, 
one may see little pieces of soap particles, fat and dirt, 
clinging to the minute threads. 

Rinsing serves more than one object ; while, primarily, 
it is designed to remove the loose particles of dirt, it is 
of equal importance that the process should remove all 
soap particles or other substances that have been pur- 
posely put into the clothing for cleansing purposes. 
Most people have an idea that everything of which 
soap is made is cleansing. This, however, is a mistaken 
notion. (See article on Rosin, Clay, Tallow, etc.) 

When the goods are brought to the ironing table, the 
soap that has been left in the clothing, is remelted by 
the hot irons and is thus spread out over the goods and 
it is often due to this fact that another form of yellow^ 
tinge is given to the clothing, particularly is this the 
case where yellow soap is used. 

Prom the boiler, put the clothing into a warm rins- 
ing water and, with the hands, thoroughly work the 
clothes about in the tub, in order to force out all of the 
SOAP as well as the dirt that has been loosened by the 
boiling process. 

Clothes should always be wrung out from each and 
every rinsing water. There is one feature of washing 
clothing that should be pounded into the head of every 
one that has to do with it and that is that CLOTHING 
IS NEVER ANY CLEANER THAN IS THE WATER 
FROM WHICH IT HAS BEEN TAKEN. 

Pouring off, or letting the rinshig water run off 
should never be tolerated, under any circumstances and 
never would be by anj^ thoroughl}^ neat housewife. 

33 



l^insing should be tliroiigli a second, a third or even 
more waters, if necessary, or until the last rinsing water 
is quite clear and free from color of any description 
and then only, can one be assured that the clothing ap- 
proaches something like a thorough cleansing; eacii 
time working them up and down in order to dislodge 
and remove all of the dirt, wringing the clotlies out 
from each rinsing water. 

Clothing, having been washed, should never be al- 
lowed to stand, either in the Avash or in the rinsing 
water for, if ailov/ed to stand dirt will at once settle 
back all through the clothes, thus giving a dingy ap- 
pearance to them. 

The last rinsing water should be comparatively clean 
and, unless it is, bad coloring of the clothing may rc?- 
sult; and if any dirt or coloring matter remains after 
the rinsing, it often interferes in doing good starch 
work, thereby affording ample proof that the rinsing 
has been slighted. 



RINSING MACHINES. 

There aro several makes of good rinsing machines. 
Experience has proven that those having both a hot and 
cold water supply are much superior to any other, as 
hot water is absolutely necessary in order to do the best 
work. 

When through rinsing, thoroughly rinse out with hot 
water and dry. In large laundries a rinsing machine is 
ahnost indispensible. 



8i 



WRINGING MACHINE. 

A good wringing machine is mneli to be desired in 
connection with all lanndry work; not only to save the 
hard and severe labor of wringing by hand, but to save 
the great strain and Avear that hand wringing gives tf> 
clothing. The cost of a good wringer will be saved 
every year by its use in a family of six or eight per- 
sons because of the destruction of clothing caused by 
hand wringing. The daily wearing of clothing that 
goes through the wash, generally speaking, is the least 
injurious use to wiiich it is put. It is the ''going 
through the wash" that is so harmful and destructive. 

Before WTinging out the clothing wipe all parts of 
the wringer with a damp cloth so that no dirt or soiled 
part of the machine will come in contact with the wet 
clothes. 

Do not screw the rollers too closely together as such 
practice is not only injurious to the clothing but ruin- 
ous to the machine; frequently causing one of the 
rollers to become loosened on its shaft in which case 
even a new machine becomes worthless. The last w^ring- 
ing process before the clothes are put upon the line, 
should be done slowly and with much care. Pass the 
the clothes between the rollers evenly or all of the loose 
water will not be pressed out of the fiber. This forcing 
out of the water and making the clothing as dry as pos- 
sible is highly important especially in case of all articles 
that require to be starched. AH buttons should be 
folded between the clothing as they pass between the 
rolls. 



35 



CARE OF THE WRINGER. 

In the ''Clear-up," after the wash, little attention, as 
a rule is given to the wringing machine. This is all 
wrong for such neglect results, sooner or later, in plentj' 
of iron rust which will make for bad future washings. 

In the care of the wringer, after a day's washing, 
first loosen the top thumb screws so as to relieve ail 
pressure between the rollers or in time they will become 
flattened if allowed to remain pressing against each 
other. When once in a flattened condition their work 
is always unsatisfactory and, besides, will wear out 
much more rapidly. 

Wipe dry, every part oi' the machine, giving particu- 
lar attention to the iron rods that run through the rub- 
ber rollers. At the ends of these rollers the rubber 
frequently becomes loosened from the rods and the 
water soaks in on the iron shafts and rust quickly fol- 
lows; and the next time the wringer is put to use the 
water from the wet clothing wets these rods and a 
stream of \7ater, full of iron rust, flows dov\^n upon the 
clothing which results in a permanent stain. To avoid 
all thes3 annoying condilions, clean well and dry 
thoroughly by a fire or in the sunshine, being careful 
not to place it where there is sufficient heat to melt the 
rubber rollers. 



WRINGING CLOTHING. 

In order that wringing may be properl}^ done, the 
clothing should be folded out smoothh^ so as to fill about 
the full width of the machine but so as to pass through, 
between the rollers, without hitting the sides. To put 
clothing through the wringer in lunq^s and bundles not 
only gives the wringer an unnecessary strain but it is 

36 



so injurious to it that, if such methods are continued, 
the machine will, in a few months, get so badly out of 
order that it will be impossible to wring clothes dry or 
to do half decent work with it. Clothing should not 
pass between the rollers any thicker in the middle than 
towards the ends of the rollers. 

Next to the importance of rinsing, attention is called 
to that of wringing. As it is much easier to have bad 
washing and poor rinsing, than right, so it is equally 
much easier to have careless wringing of clothing. 

There can never be any excuse for taking clothing 
out of the rinsing w^ater and putting it into another, 
without first wringing out, for the clothing ivill carry, 
full of dirt, to the extent of the uncleanliness of the 
clothing and water from which they are taken. 

Always remember— clothing is never as clean as is 
the water from which it has been taken. 

The ancient and timeworn method of twisting cloth- 
ing, with all the strength one can bring to bear, in order 
to squeeze out the surplus water, is quite as destructive 
to the fiber of the goods as is the rubbing and scrubbing 
process of washing machines, hand rubbing, or the use 
of strong chemicals that are employed to help force out 
the dirt. 

By the twisting process the threads of the goods are 
strained, quite often to their utmost tension and it is 
seldom that some of them are not severely weakened, if 
not actually broken; and every time they are newly 
washed and twisted, other threads give way in the 
wringing more easily, and it is thus that the life of the 
clothing becomes materially shortened. 

After EACH operation of soaking, washing, boiling, 
rinsing and bluing all clothing should be wrung out, 
either by hand or machine as this removes a large 
amount of dirt with the water thus taken out. A suf- 

37 



ficient amount of wringing is quite as important as a 
sufficient amount of washing or rinsing. Wringing, 
more than any other part of the several processes of 
washing, forces out the loose particles of dirt, grease, 
perspiration, etc., along with the dirty water. With- 
out these several wringings, the first dirty water in the 
clothing, with continuous additions being made to it, is 
carried, along in and with the clothing and is finally 
left as a handicap to good starching. 



DRYING CLOTHING. 

If room is to be had, out in the open air and in the 
sunshine, away from fl3ang dust and dirt, with few ex- 
ceptions, it is far preferable for the purpose of drying 
most vrashable fabrics. 

Out ol doors the clothing receives the great benefit of 
the sunlight and its attendant heat, the great purifier 
of nature. 

Silks should always be dried quickly, the quicker the 
better, and ironed while slightly damp. They must 
not, however, be dried before a fire or placed where the 
heat is too great. 

Linen or cotton goods may be dried as circumstances 
permit, but by hanging up when it can be done is the 
better way. 

Flannels or woolens should be carefullj^ stretched in 
all directions and, if pinned to a frame and quickly 
dried, their appearance will be much improved. 

Prints and most colored goods, linens or muslins 
should be hurried in the drying process. 

Rarely, if ever, will one see a sheet hung properly 
upon a line. Instead of putting the sheet over the line, 
with the edges hanging down, put the hems together 

38 



and pin these to the line. This method prevents the 
wind from whipping the sheet and tearing the corners 
and such hanging greatly lessens ^.he heavy wear and 
tear caused by switching about in the wind. 



WET CLOTHING. 

Clothing of any or all kinds or description should 
never be allowed to remain bundled together while in 
a damp or wet condition. 

The colors of all goods are almost invariably in- 
jured when allowed to remain in a damp state. 

All colored goods should be hurried through the 
soaking — through the washing — through the bluing — 
and through the final rinsing — as fast as possible and 
out on to the line as quickly as it can be conveniently 
done, in order to get the best results that may be had. 



FOLDING. 

In passing clothing between the rollers of the wring- 
ing machine or the mangle, all buttons should be 
covered or folded within the clothing so as to protect 
them and prevent their being torn off. 

All linen in passing through the mangle should be 
folded so that the edges will be even. 



MANGLING. 

Mangling is a process for smoothing clothing, instead 
of ironing them, after they have been dried, by passing 
them between heavy rollers, either of wood or iron. 
The latter machine is so made that the rolls may be 
heated. These machines do most excellent work. 

39 



A mangling machine should always be worked slowly 
and carefully in order to do fine work. Before using, 
be sure that all dust or dirt has been wiped from the 
rolls. 

As a rule mangle all articles, except those that are to 
be starched. All articles for the mangle should be very 
slightly dampened. 

Counterpanes, most of the body linen, napkins, pil- 
low cases, sheets, towels, tableclothes and all household 
linen should be run through the mangle. 

Do not mangle rough goods, such as Turkish towels, 
bath robes, towels, etc. Ironing or mangling such 
articles takes away their natural touch or peculiar feel- 
ing that would be destroyed if they were to be ironed. 



A-":7^':^LES EEQUIRED FOR USE IN THE 
LAUNDRY. 

Insist upon having everything in the laundry that 
will lighten labor, help to avoid drudgery, save time and 
unnecessary expense. Do this whether it does the work 
any better or not. It is the human being that is to be 
considered, should be saved, should be helped in order 
to make life more enjoyable and the monotony of work 
lessened. 

1. The requisite number of tubs for soaking, wash- 
ing, rinsing and bluing. 

2. A washing machine, the latest improved, one that 
rubs or twists and strains the clothing the least, is the 
most economical to buy. 

3. A good wringing machine, one that works both 
ways, that is, with either right or left hand as it saves 
time and often can be put on either side of ths tub, in 
a mort advantagious position for working. Get one 

40 



with galvanized rods through the rubber rollers if pos- 
sible as such will save much soiling of clothing, also 
coloring of the clothing from possible iron rust. 

4. Two washboards of different sizes (not needed if 
a washing machine is used). One made of glass is 
superior to all others. The washboard is, sometimes, a 
source of iron rust from the iron nails in it. 

5. Boiler, one all of copper is better and cheaper in 
the end. Many boilers, after becoming worn, are a 
source of soiling and coloring of the clothing from rust. 

6. Clothes-stick. Get one that is forked at one end 
as that aids one greatly in securing a good hold upon 
the clothing in lifting them from the boiler. 

7. Two or three light pails. 

8. Sad or flatirons. Have one heavy weight, one 
light and one sharp pointed and as many more as may 
be necessary to easily and rapidly do one's work. Irons 
heated by charcoal, gas, oil or electricity are great 
labor-saving devices and are recommended highly by 
those who have had considerable experience with them. 

9. Rope. For convenience in handling the rope, 
get a reel. This can be secured at some store or if not, 
one can be easily made. The use of a reel saves much 
time, is much more convenient and keeps the rope in 
better condition. Never leave the rope out of doors 
when not in use as the rains and dust soon color and 
spoil it and as a consequence the clothing has to suffer. 

10. Ironing board. Either one in combination or 
one for general use and one each for shirts, sleeves and 
bosoms. 



41 



IRON BOARD. 

A specially prepared board for ironing clothing is 
desirable bnt, if one is not to be had, a table answers all 
necessary purposes. A board eighteen inches wide and 
five feet long will render very good service; but for 
special work, other sizes can be used to good advantage. 
The board should first be covered mth some thick sub- 
stance, a woolen or cotton blanket, and this again 
covered with a clean cotton cloth or an old sheet will 
answer. 

Draw the covering tightly over the board so as to 
take out all wrinkles and fasten on the ^^n^ong side of 
the board. A sh )rt, large headed tack will ansv/er all 
purposes but a brass thumb tack is preferable. The 
outer covering for this board should be sewed or laced 
on with twine so as to be easily removed for washing. 

This outer covering should be washed as often as 
once a month and the other covering beneath it at least 
four or five times a year or the dirt that naturally ac- 
cumulates becomes rubbed into the covering and that 
in turn, soils the articles to be placed upon it for iron- 
ing. 

DAMPENING PAD. 

A pad, for dampening starched goods, instead of a 
wet cloth, serves a much better purpose. One may be 
easily made as follows : Take a piece of wood, four and 
one-half inches long and two and one-half inches wide 
and one inch thick. On one side fasten some form of 
a handle. On the opposite side, the ends are cut down 
or thinned to about a quarter of an inch in thickness 
so as to make the wood rocker-shaped. Over this, 
several thicknesses of white, heavy flannel or knit. goods 
and cover this with a tightly drawn cotton cloth as 

42 "^ 



a covering. This should be sewed or laced on, not 
tacked, as no chance must be allowed for rnst. While 
ironing, this pad should be dampened and kept in ^ a 
saucer to preserve its moisture. If the pad is much in 
use an occasional spoonful of water put into the saucer 
will maintain its dampness. In using the pad, press 
it upon the spot that is too dry and rock the pad up and 
down. This will dampen sufficiently and evenly the 
starched surface. The use of this device spreads the 
moisture more satisfactorily and at the same time does 
not weaken the starched surface as would be done with 
a wet rag if rubbed upon the spot. 

. 'v J 

FREEZING OF WET CLOTHING. 

To prevent a too rapid freezing of clothing when 
hanging out on the line to dry, put a cup full of com- 
mon salt into a half tub full of water for the last rins- 
ing water, and also a proportionate amount of salt into 
the bluing water. 

CLOTHESPINS. 

In freezing weather the removal of clothespins, with- 
out tearing the clothes is often a difficult matter and 
sometimes impossible, especially the finer clothes. All 
this difficulty may be avoided by soaking the pins in a 
strong solution of salt water for fifteen minutes and 
then use, without drying or wiping. 

CHILLING OF HANDS. 

In cold weather, chilling of the hands may be greatly 
lessened by rubbing the thumbs and fingers in kero- 
sene before hanging the clothes to dry. 

43 



PREPARATIONS FOR WASHING. 

Carry into the room where the washing is to be done 
all of the clothing that is to be washed and sort out into 
separate piles such articles as are to be washed together, 
as follows : 

1. Table linen all that pertains to the table, to be 
washed first, in the clean water. 

2. Bodily linen, shirts, collars, cuffs, sheets, pillow- 
slips, underclothing, etc. 

3. Towels, etc. 

4. Colored goods (fast colors only). 

5. Socks, stockings, etc. (fast colors only). 

6. Any other articles to be washed. 

7. Colored goods of doubtful colors. 

8. Socks and stockings of doubtful colors. 

9. Handkerchiefs, etc., and articles of like character 
should be washed separately. (See article entitled 
''Handkerchiefs and Diapers.") 



SOAKING OF CLOTHING. 

The soaking of clothing is a feature of washing that 
deserves more attention than is given to it in most 
cases. 

The soaking, in the great majority of families, is done 
very indifferently and less interest is manifested in it 
than any other part of the washing. Most people do 
not consider that the soaking of clothing needs any 
special thought or care, and thus, it is right here, at the 
very beginning, that successful washing is given a set- 
back. 

With many, simply cold water is all that is necessary 
and it is just the same to them no matter how hard the 

44 



water may be, no matter how full of sediment, silt like 
substances or coloring matter there may be in it they 
would hardly think of straining it in order to remove 
such handicaps to good washing. 

There is equally as much room or necessity for the 
employment of intelligence in the laundry as there is in 
the pantry. AYhiteness of the clothing seems to be the 
criterion by which clothing is judged to have been 
cleansed, but the microscope often tells a story quite to 
the contrary. 

There are many articles for the wash that "Should 
never be soaked in the same water with other articles. 
All body articles such as underclothing, etc., should be 
put in one water and table linen, etc., should be put in 
an other tub and so on. 

In order that one may get the best results from their 
work, a specially prepared water for soaking of cloth- 
ing should be used. (See article on "How to Use 
Chemicals.") Of ten-times a stain is permanently set 
or a discoloration made fast by i^se of a wrongly pre- 
pared soaking water. 

It is only seldom that clothing should be soaked over 
night and then it shoiild be under right conditions. 
When the water has become cooled by setting over night 
the dirt that has been loosened in the warm water will 
have become set in the fiber of the clothing and in fre- 
quent cases, it is this cooling that has made the dirt 
more difficult of removal and the clothing is thus given 
a grayish appearance; while at other times the cloth- 
ing would receive a yellowish appearance. 

It is only necessary to soak the more soiled clothes 
any length of time and the water for all soaking should 
be warm as then its penetrating power is many times 

45 



doubled. Fifteen minutes soaking in water as hot as 
the hand can bear will do more good work than six 
hours in cold water. 

Washing should be underway before the soaking 
Water has cooled very much. 

Into the soaking tub of warm water, put one table- 
spoonful of powdered borax, dissolved, to ten quarts 
of warm w^ater, and- one tablespoonful of ammonia to 
one pail (eight quarts) of water. Have in the soaking 
tub just enough water to thoroughly saturate the 
goods. If too much water is used the strength of the 
cleansing ingredients is materially weakened, conse- 
quently less dirt removed by their chemical action. 
Soap the more soiled parts of the clothing and rub it 
well into the fiber and then let stand for twenty to 
thirty minutes. 

Dip the more soiled parts, such as collars, cuffs, wrist- 
bands, etc., into a thick (specially prepared — one or two 
quarts) heavy soap water, and with the hands, work 
and rub it into the cloth. When fully saturated, put 
to soak in the tub of suds-water, putting those more 
soiled at the bottom of the tub, the cleaner clothes next 
and so on. 

After soaking twenty to thirty minutes, according to 
the soiled condition, wring the clothing from the soak- 
ing water, before commencing to wash as such wringing 
takes out much dirt and the washing has proceeded to 
quite an extent by this time. 

Now, in soaking, as in washing, clothing should be 
kept, according to its class, in separate soaking tubs 
but, if one does not care to carry out the plan of neat- 
ness or if their sense of taste and refinement will per- 
mit, they may put all of the clothing into one soaking 
tub. 

46 



Should the latter plan be determined upon, put the 
more soiled pieces at the bottom, those less soiled next 
and so on with the table linen on top. 



SOAP. 

Cheap soap will never do good and satisfactory 
laundry work. Bar soaps should always be dissolved, 
no matter what kind it may happen to be, before using 
upon clothing. Rubbing soap upon clothing spreads 
it very unevenly, thick and thin in spots and in this 
way only cleans but fairly well, that particular spot 
so that at best the garment will be irregularly and 
poorly cleaned. 

Bar soaps usually contam foreign matter such as 
rosin, tallow, clay and other substances that have in 
and of themselves, no cleansing properties AvhateVer and 
their use is simply putting so much more dirt into the 
water to be filtered through and clog the fiber of th.- 
clothing. 

The question as to what kind or kinds of soap should 
be used to best advantage in the cleansing of linen is 
of great importance to every housewife and should be 
given careful attention as the natural tendenc}^ or 
an inferior soap is to tinge all white garments with a 
bad color. 

Soaps are made from a variety of substances such as 
oils, vegetable, mineral and animal fats, saponified by 
being mixed with an alkali. 

The alkalies, when put into water come in contact 
with the dirt that is in the clothing and at once a 
chemical action is set up causing the dirt particles to 
disintegrate or crumble and break apart. 

The fats used in making soaj:), in and of themselves, 

47 



have no cleansing power. The alkali has a burning 
power or property and as such, when too strong, eats 
or burns into whatever it comes in contact in the cloth- 
ing line. 

The adulteration of soaps is carried on in some 
quarters to a very large extent. This is not only a 
great waste but the ingredients used when not destruc- 
tive, to say the least are often harmful to any washable 
fabric as every application of it weakens the fiber of 
the goods and if the process is continued finally makes 
them useless. 

Soaps that contain alkalies in excess, particularly 
caustic alkalies, are very injurious to colors and will 
also rot the clothing. A soap of sufficient strength to 
take out dirt, which is also a color, will likewise take 
out colors to a more or less extent or, at least will give 
them a faded appearance, provided the colors are not 
what are known as ''fast colors." 

Soaps that contain free fats, combined with lime or 
magnesia, an article that is found to a more or less 
extent in most water, produces a deposit, which, if it 
gets into the fiber of the clothing, will give it a gray- 
ish appearance. 

Yellow soap is made up of hard fat soap and a vari- 
able amount, up to forty or more per cent., of resin 
soap. 

Clothing should not be washed with alkalies, caustic 
potash or caustic soda or any of the species of cloth- 
destroying substances. 

Fats and grease are quickly saponified by caustic soda 
or caustic potash and the latter, also, has a povv'erful 
bleaching effect, and when too strong, destroys all fiber 
of an animal nature, while vegetable fibers are injured 
seriously and soon become brittle and break away into 
holes. 

48 



Caustic soda and potash liquors easily destroy most 
fabrics and have the same destructive tendency in all 
mixtures of soaps, lime or soda. These substances have 
bleaching properties to a considerable extent but as dirt 
removers they have no value. 

Many washing liquors are of doubtful character as 
frequently they are made up in a way so as to be injuri- 
ous to all washable fabrics. A great many of them con- 
tain soda or potash and lime in sufficient quantity to be 
destructive to both animal and vegetable fiber and when 
used too freely they not only bleach but will rot the 
fabric. They are, however, less destructive to vege- 
table than to animal fibers. 

Some soaps and alkalies are certainly made to clean 
clothing, but such cleaning is generally at the expense 
of the owner. 

The foregoing description of certain chemicals that 
are used in the wash is that one may know to what their 
clothing may be liable but not what always happens. 
For further information see article on ''How to Use 
Chemicals in the Laundry." 



SOAP POWDERS. 

There are quite a variety of good soap-powders to be 
had in the market and there are also many cheap ones 
that should never be used in doing any laundry work. 
Good soap-powders dissolve readily and have less 
foreign substances that in no way cleanse and, gener- 
ally speaking, give equal or better results in family 
washings than the general run of bar soaps while bav- 
in the advantage of being more economical. 

With an experience of about fifteen years in doing 
family laundry work for more than three hundred 

49 



families it was found that three cents worth of good 
soap-powders was found to be about equal to five cents 
worth of bar soaps, as was generally provided. Soap- 
powders, however, should always he thoroughly dis- 
solved and made into a liquid soap before using. 

Different manufacturers use very dissimilar ingredi- 
ents in the make-up of their soap-powders ; such as 
calcined soda, ammonia, glauber salts, borax, potassium 
carbonate, sodium silicate, oil of thyme, potassium per- 
manganate, sodium hyposulphate and chloride of lime, 
nuxed with other substances that have, as before said, 
no cleansing value but, on the contrary merely add 
more dirt to the clothing. 

BLUES. 

Liquid blues, generally, are stronger than solid blues. 
Some blues are designed to be mixed in hot water and 
others in cold water. Either form of bluing should 
mingle quickly and spread rapidly through every por- 
tion of the water and make no sediment or streakiness 
ill the water. 

Should bluing when put in the water and after stand- 
ing a while, settle or separate, it is unfit for use and 
should at once be thrown away. 

A cube or ball of bluing (solid blues) should be of 
I he same color in all parts, when broken open and, 
siiould there be any variation in the coloring the indica- 
tion is that this lump has been adulterated and that 
good results could not be expected from its use. 

Bluing should always be kept out of the light other- 
wise it will lose in strength. 

Of all the numerous varieties of blues, the analine 
blues, although of comparative recent years in manu- 
facture, are, for various reasons, preferable to all 

50 



others. These blues will mix in either hot or cold 
water; but, with all the advantages belonging to them 
they require to be more carefully handled than some 
others; yet, when rightly used, the results should be 
entirely satisfactory. 

BLUING. 

Among the various branches of laundry work, that 
of bluing is the most uncertain, the least understood 
and the whys and wherefores of the results obtained, 
whether good or bad, alike, are bej^ond the compre- 
hension of most people. 

The object for which bluing is resorted to, is to cor- 
rect the yellowish or grayish tinge that comes, in the 
course of time, to all clothing; but the real use or ad- 
vantage of bluing is the correction of the yellow tinge 
that IS CAUSED BY IMPERFECT RINSING OUT 
of the soap water, which contains an alkali, from the 
fabric. 

The bluing of clothing, after the wash, while not 
universally required in the country has become an al- 
most inseparable adjunct to all city washing; and, in- 
nocently enough, it is frequently an indirect cause 
and source of annoyance, all unknown to the housewife. 

In some blues there is a chemical compound contain- 
ing iron, notably in certain soluble Prussian blues 
which are the larger portion of blues manufactured and 
which, for general use, are among the best obtainable. 
This kind of bluing is all right, provided the washing 
and rinsing has been properly done. If, however, the 
alkali of the soap has not been fully rinsed out of the 
clothing, it will cause a decomposition of the iron con- 
tained in the bluing, thereby causing an appearance of 
iron rust upon the clothing. 

51 



Some portion of the clothing is generally more yel- 
low than other parts. Such parts should be dipped 
(the yellow portions only) in a stronger bluing water 
than is used for the other portions of the goods. First, 
put the article through the regular bluing water and 
wring out, then gather together the yellow part and 
dip into a stronger bluing water, wring again and hang 
to dry. It is well to have two bluing waters, the regu- 
lar and the stronger, as this will save time in the bluing 
operations. 

Some kinds of bluing will, sometimes, give^a streaky 
appearance in the clothing. This appearance is often 
prevented by the addition of a little washing soda to 
the bluing water; about one-fourth teaspoonful to four 
gallons of water. This amount of soda should be 
lessened accordingly as the water is sioft or hard. 

When a large amount of clothing has to be blued, 
occasionally add a little more bluing to the water in 
order to keep up its strength, thereby maintaining the 
same degree of color for the whole wash. 

All of those articles that need less bluing should be 
put into the bluing water last, after the coloring has 
become weakened by use. 

Blue table linen least and body linen most. All 
goods should be blued, according to the class to which 
they belong. 

Clothing should not be passed through the bluing 
water too rapidly and sometimes one should let the 
article remain in the bluing water for a few minutes 
but in such cases the water should be kept agitated so 
that there may be no settling of the bluing, then wring 
out, putting each piece carefully through the wringer 
so as to take out all of the water. 

After the clothing has been put through the bluing 
water do not let it remain in a wet heap, for by so do- 

52 



ing, there is quite a possibility of its becoming streaked 
or spotted. 

A very little starch, added to the bluing water gives 
good results and a better appearance to the clothing 
With the exception of those to be starched, hang on the 
line at once. 

The starching may be done immediately after the 
bluing has been finished and before drying. 

Acids are not at all necessary in the bluing process. 

Should the clothing be too blue in places, or streaked 
when dried, it shows that the RINSING "WAS TOO 
HURRIEDLY AND INSUFFICIENTLY DONE, or 
that THE WATER WAS NOT EVENLY WRUNG 
OUT OF THE CLOTHING. 

It is impossible to have the best bluing effects, IF 
THERE IS ANY SOAP WATER REMAINING IN 
THE FIBER OF THE GOODS. Sometimes insuf- 
ficient mixing of the bluing will cause a streakiness of 
coloring in the goods. 

Have a sufficient amount of bluing water so that the 
clothing may be thoroughly soaked in it. This will 
have a tendency to make the bluing effect more evenly 
apparent. 



CHEMICALS IN THE LAUNDRY. 

Mixtures for use in cleansing clothing should be kept 
on hand, just as much as soap, soap-powders, tub or a 
wringing machine, etc. 

Soda, as a softener of water is one of the best of in- 
gredients: but, the right proportion to be used, varies 
in almost every locality. (See article on "Localities.") 
A good rule is as follows: Into the water, warm, to be 
softened, dissolve a sufficient amount of soda so that, 

53 



when' the fingers and thumb, in the water, are rubbed 
together there is a feeling of smoothness or slipperi- 
ness. 

Into eight gallons of w^ater, if it is hard, soften by 
putting in one of the following articles: 

Turpentine, one tablespoonful. 
Liquid soda, one tablespoonful. 

Powdered borax, two tablespoonfuls dissolved in hot 
water. 

Ammonia, two tablespoonfuls. 

Thoroughly stir and after standing a feAv moments, 
skim off all white or grayish matter that rises to the 
surface. In preparing for washing, this can be used 
in the soaking tub to soften the dirt. If bleaching is 
desired, put one of these softeners — and sometime it is 
well to use two different ingredients, say ammonia and 
borax or ammonia and turpentine as each has its own 
peculiar action upon dirt, one ingredient sometimes 
reaching what another would not. 

For ready use provide the following: 

Borax, if full strength, dissolve one teaspoonful in 
four quarts of water. 

Liquid soda, dissolve one pound of soda in one quart 
of hot water. 

Sal soda, for softening water, dissolve one pound in 
one quart of warm water. For use, take one large 
spoonful to four quarts of w^ater. 

Keep these bottled, ready for use, thereby saving 
much valuable time when not obliged to prepare them 
on wash day. 

Javelle water should always be kept on hand for the 
purpose of removing bad stains and discolorations of 
an}^ kind that may get upon the clothing. 

54 



Ammonia used upon silks or woolens is very apt to 
give them a yellow tinge and should never be used on 
this class of goods. 



PREPARING THE BLUING WATER. 

Bluing water should be free from all dirt or any 
coloring matter. Hard water makes a poor bluing 
water ; therefore, if the water is hard, soften with borax 
(see article on Borax). When the water is sufficiently 
softenened it will give a smooth feeling when the thumb 
and fingers are rubbed together in the water. 

In order to obtain the best results in bluing, be sure 
that no soap water is left in the clothing, to get into 
the bluing water, due to insufficient rinsing or to poor 
wringing. 

Put the bluing, if it is not a liquid, into a piece of 
stout cloth so that it may be strained as it is dissolved. 
Tie the ends of the cloth fast so that the bluing will be 
in a little bag and then dissolve in warm water. Rub 
and squeeze the bag of bluing with the fingers to hasten 
its dissolving. When enough has been dissolved to give 
about the right coloring, pour it into the tub of water 
for bluing, stir thoroughly and use immediately. Keep 
the bluing water well stirred while it is being used or 
good results cannot be obtained. (See article on 
Blues.) 

STARCHES 

There are some twenty and more substances from 
which starches are made. All of them vary greatly in 
their stiffening powers. A number of starch substi- 
tutes that are upon the market, owing to their requir- 



ing little if any skill in their use are preferred by som^ 
people to the genuine. These substitutes, as a rule, 
are much easier handled by most women than are the 
pure starches. 

Rice starch, for stiffening purposes, stands at the 
head of the list. It is perfectly soluble and, to suit 
any and all kinds of work, may be diluted to meet the 
required demands. 

Potato starch stands at the bottom of the list in 
strength. It is, however, a valuable starch as it easily 
penetrates the fiber and is never injurious to the cloth- 
ing. 

A comparison of the relative values of the different 
ingredients in their stiffening properties as used in the 
manufacture of starches may prove of interest to those 
making much use of this article. They are as follows: 

Pure, Dry Rice Starch 100 

Rice Starch No. 2 95 

Rice Starch No. 2 91 

Corn Starch 85 

Barley Starch 79 

Potato Starch 65 

For different kinds of articles to be starched it is an 
excellent plan to have one of the lower grades to be 
used where less stiffening is required, for instance the 
potato starch. If, however, one of the high priced 
starches is used it may be thinned down to suit all kinds 
of requirements. 



FLAT IRONS. 

One should have a specially prepared board on which 
to clean the irons from rust and all other substances, 
before commencing to iron clothing. 

56 



Sprinkle upon the board, table-salt and rub the iron 
upon it until it is perfectly free from rust or rust spots, 
soot or other foreign matter. 

If the iron should be badly rusted, rub it with fine 
sandpaper and then rub the iron upon the salt. 

When not in use, never leave the irons about in the 
open kitchen, as any dampness, or steam from cooking, 
will cause them to rust and as a consequence, will only 
do work poorly. 

IRON STANDS. 

The ordinary iron stands in general use for irons 
are objectionable as their tendency is to help cool the 
iron. A clean brick or soapstone is much to be pre- 
ferred. This should be heated and the iron kept upon 
that when not in use as in this manner the iron re- 
tains its heat much longer and as a consequence saves 
much loss of time in going back and forth to the stove, 
lessens the time of ironing and indirectly is a saving in 
the cost of fuel. 

IRONS, HOT. 

To determine when the irons have become sufficiently 
heated for ironing purposes, wet the finger on the 
tongue and tap the heating iron quickly but slightly, 
upon the bottom, and if there is a snapping or crackling 
sound it has become sufficiently heated for use. 

Irons may be and often are made too hot for ironing 
starched goods. 

As soon as the iron is sufficiently heated and ready 
for use, rub it on the salt-board (have fresh, clean salt) 
to clean it, then wipe with a cloth and rub lightly with 
wax, wipe again, and you are ready to commence work. 

57 



SELF-HEATING IRONS. 

Self-heating (so-called) irons, such as charcoal, gaso- 
line, kerosene or electric are highly recommended by 
most people who have used them for doing all kinds of 
ironing. 

Accidents have resulted in some instances while using 
these irons, but the cases are few and far between 
where the cause of the accident was not due to improper 
handling by the user, instead of from any defect or 
fault of the iron. The use of these self-heating irons 
saves the making of and annoyance of a hot fire and a 
consequent overheating of the house. It has been esti- 
mated that not more than a one-thousandth part of the 
heat from a stove is taken up in the old-style sad iron— 
a useless waste of value — an extravagance, pure and 
simple at any time of the year and under any and all 
conditions. 

A self-heating iron, as its name implies, can be used 
continuously, thereby saving much valuable time in go- 
ing to and from the stove which often is at some dis- 
tance from the ironing table. Some of the more modern 
irons will work continuously for three hours without 
refilling, which time, used at ironing, would be equal 
to at least four or four and a half hours use of the old- 
style flat iron. The time, labor, fuel and other ex- 
penses saved by the use of an up-to-date method for 
ironing will more than pay for almost any self-heating 
iron in less than a year. 

The cost of running a self -heating iron is small, one 
and a half cents to two and a half cents per hour, with 
the exception of the electric which, it is claimed by 
many can be run at a cost of about three to five cents 
per hour for a five-pound iron and about one cent ad- 
ditional, per pound for irons of greater weight. 

58 



Soda used upon silks or woolens has a destructive 
tendency and should never be used. 

Borax, this is especially good to remove the yellow 
tinge that time gives to white garments. This is used 
in the washing water. It is also an excellent plan to 
put a teaspoonful into the last rinsing water as it will 
give an additional whiteness to the goods. 

Borax should always be dissolved in warm water be- 
fore using, in the proportion as above given. 

Turpentine, like borax, helps to whiten or bleach 
white goods. 

DISINFECTANTS. 

Disinfectants should be kept from the air as the 
nature of their composition makes them particularly 
liable to lose all value, through decomposition and 
evaporation and in some instances, even the action of 
sunlight is harmful. All disinfectants should be pro- 
tected and preserved as much as possible and kept 
away from all light or action of the atmosphere. When 
not using keep them in a dark place. 



ALKALIES. 

The use of soda in washing, unquestionably, is a 
great advantage. It acts quickly upon nearly all forms 
or kinds of dirt, causing it to disintegrate rapidly. It 
softens hard water and has a great value in its cleans- 
ing properties and is quite inexpensive. Fatty sub- 
stances are dissolved by it and then are easily washed 
out of the goods. Its use, however, must be with a 
great degree of caution. If used in large amounts it 
is very destructive to woolens, linens or cotton fabrics; 

59 



in fact, its action upon the fiber of all washable fabrics, 
if too strong, would be destructive and the strength of 
the clothing would be weakened. 

Should there be any doubt as to the advisability of 
its use we would suggest that borax be employed in- 
stead. (See article on "Borax.") 

A much less amount of soda should be used if the 
goods are to be soaked over night. Soda should always 
be fully dissolved in warm water before it is put into 
the soaking tub of water as the solid soda coming in 
contact and resting upon the wet clothing would likely 
destroy that part — burn its life out. (See article on 
"How to use Chemicals in the Laundry.") 

Soda, as a softener of water, is one of the best — but, 
the right proportion required to be used for a certain 
amount of water varies in almost every locality. (See 
article on "Localities.") 

A good rule is as follows: Into the water that is de- 
sired to be softened, dissolve a sufficient amount of soda 
so that, when the fingers and thumb are rubbed to- 
gether in the water there is a feeling of smoothsnes oi 
siipperiness of the water. 

A softener for water that is almost universally safe 
is borax. This can be used under a great variety of 
conditions. (See article on "Borax.") 



PARAFFINE. 

The use of liquid paraffine in the soaking tub is of 
great assistance in the cleansing of clothing. It acts 
directly upon dirt particles, separating them from each 
other, thus making their removal much easier. 

When paraffine is used in the soaking tub, before the 
clothing is taken out, they should be tumbled and 

60 



Squeezed between the hands for a few minutes and then 
wrung out and at once put into the boiler where by 
boiling from fifteen to twenty minutes, much of the dirt 
may be rinsed out of the clothing. If the rinsing is 
here thoroughly done there will be little if any smell 
from the paraffine. 

Should a scum appear upon the surface of the water 
in the soaking tub, it should always be skimmed oif for 
this is the dirt that has become attached to the particles 
of floating paraffine and if it is allowed to remain in 
the water it is liable to get back into the fiber of the 
clothing where, without extra work, it will be difficult 
of removal. 

While the clothes are boiling they should be closely 
watched and all scum that rises upon the surface of the 
water should be taken off, lest it should work back again 
into the clothing. 

Colors are not effected by the use of paraffine in the 
wash but on the contrary are generally benefitted. 

Paraffine is not injurious to the fiber of goods, is not 
effected b}^ any alkaline condition but acts inde- 
pendently of all other ingredients in its relation to dirt, 
and of all cleansing substances this is one of the most 
powerful in the line of its particular^ action and is 
highly recommended for laundry i)urposes by those 
familiar with its merits. 

LIME. 

Hard water, almost invariably, is impregnated with 
lime. This lime of the water, coming in contact with 
the alkali of soap, forms a substance called lime-soap. 

This new substance or compound thus formed in the 
water is insoluble and in the boiling of clothing this 
lime-soap settles all through the fiber, forming over 

61 



each thread a thin coating. As a consequence of this 
deposit, the dirt upon the clothing is peculiarly affected 
in the process of washing and remains fast in the goods, 
held there by its artificial covering and when the clothes 
have dried they will have a grayish or dingy appear- 
ance. 



CHEMICAL ACTION IN WASHING. 

Nearly all water contains foreign substances in one 
form or another and when acids, soaps or other ingredi- 
ents, designed to assist in cleansing, are put into the 
water, a coloring compound is often produced. This is 
particularly so in the case of fruit stains of all kinds, 
also of mildew, etc. 

Many shades of coloring are often discovered in cloth- 
ing for which one is unable to account. These dis- 
colorations are very frequently caused by the soap 
used, which, in a great many instances, sets or makes 
more or less permanent in the clothing some form of 
discoloration found in the water, that only time will 
remove. 



GASOLINE. 

Gasoline will remove grease spots from almost any 
delicate fabric without injury to the article. Some- 
times, when using it, a ring is formed about the spot 
that was to be cleaned. Should this occur, hold the 
spot in the steam coming from the spout of the tea- 
kettle. This wdll cause an evaporation of any grease 
that has been left in the goods and it will also help to 
carry off any particles of grease or oily substances that 
may have escaped notice. 

62 



CLAY, UOSIN, TALLOW, ETC. 

A soap, for convenience in handling, must necessarily 
have a body to hold it up, otherwise in doing laundry or 
other work requiring its use, it would be rapidly — dis- 
sipated — washed away. 

For the purpose of making a hard, bar or cake soap, 
it is necessary to use substances that will stand a fair 
amount of heat or water, and which at the same time 
will not be too readily dissolved. 

Substances of this character are best represented in 
clay, rosin, tallow, ashes, silicate of soda, powdered 
pumice stone and sand. Naturally, none of these in- 
gredients have any cleansing power whatever, but on 
the contrary, put just that much additional dirt into 
the fiber of the clothing, discolors the linen and their 
effect upon all woolens is always bad. 



KEROSENE. 

Kerosene is one of the most powerful of all penetrat- 
ing liquid substances. It attacks dirt in all forms in a 
most active and effective manner. It may be used to 
advantage as follows: One tablespoonful to one gallon 
of water for an average wash, but wiien the clothes are 
very badly soiled, use two tablespoonfuls to a gallon 
of water. 

It is used, preferably, in the soaking tub of w^arm, 
104 degrees Fahrenheit, but not cold water. It may 
also be put in with the boiling clothes, but it must be 
watched while the clothes are boiling and any scum thac 
rises to the surface should be skimmed off or it will 
be likely to work back into the clothing and then would 
be diffcult to w^ash out. 

63 



There will be very little or no odor from the use of 
kerosene, after the clothes have dried. It is harmless 
to the fiber of all white washable fabrics and has proven 
to be one of the best of cleaners for that class of goods, 
particularly so if they have become yellow from long 
standing or out of use. 

Colored goods, however, should not be subjected to 
its use, except when the colors are known to be fast, 
when it is very good, otherwise, if the dies are weak 
the coloring matter will be likely to run or spread ouL 
into the goods. 



CRUDE SANITAS. 

Although generally unknown to the average house- 
wife and therefore unused, sanitas is one of the most 
valued of all substances for the purpose for which it is 
designed. 

As a germicide and destro^^er of infectious spores, it 
acts quickly and surely. It mixes easily with either 
hot or cold water (making a milky colored solution) 
for all washing purposes in the laundry. Its odor is 
pleasant, it is colorless, it is not poisonous, does not 
stain clothing, works nicely with washing powder or 
soap, is used in washing machines or tubs with bene- 
ficial results. 

It is a powerful disinfectant and used to great ad- 
vantage in closets, sinks, bedrooms, beds, sick rooms, 
hospitals, etc. . 

For infected clothing put one gill into two and one- 
half quarts of warm water and into this put the cloth- 
ing, let stand for ten minutes, stirring meanwhile. This 
will destroy any germ life. 

For general laundry use in washing clothes, if there 

64 



is any sickness whatever in the house, use in the washing 
water one tablespoonful to each ten quarts of water as 
a precaution against spreading of disease. 

If the li(iuid has not been used generally throughout 
the washing into the last rinsing water, as a matter of 
possible prevention, its use is recommended to ward off 
any infection — use one tablespoonful of the liquid for 
every twenty quarts of water for rinsing. 



CHEMICALS. 

All laundry chemicals should be kept in bottles or 
boxes, properly labeled and set apart from all other 
bottles, as most of them are of a poisonous nature. 

Keep the bottles tightly corked at all times for when 
the contents are exposed to atmospheric action they 
(juickly lose all virtue and become useless for the pur- 
poses desired. 

As is well known by the best informed laundry 
people, the use of chemicals in the laundry is for the 
purpose of making clothing white and also for the 
purpose of taking out of linen all objectionable spots, 
discolorations, stains, etc. 

For family use in the washing of clothing, borax is 
first to be recommended for various reasons as set forth 
in this work. 



BORAX. 

Few people realize the great benefits that are to be 
derived from the use of borax in their laundry work. 
The California borax is probably the best and most 
valuable as it is richest in boron. 

It may be used in the place of soda to advantage as 

65 



it has great force in softening Avater and at the same 
time it acts as a cleanser of great strength. 

In addition to the foregoing features which are of 
much value, it has another which is of still greater im- 
portance in that it is a most effective disinfectant. The 
element of horon, at once, actively attacks all forms ol' 
dirt, germs and spores and many of the lower orders of 
life so that such harmful and objectionable elements 
are permanently weakened if not destroyed. 

Borax can be safely used upon either linens, cottons 
or woolens and it has no deleterious effects upon the 
fiber. 

Borax, unlike other cleansing substances, may b:3 
used without harm, on colored goods and that too, to 
great advantage. 

A most desirable soaking water is made by putting 
one tablespoonful of borax into one gallon of hot water 
for badly soiled goods. 

For colored goods, not too badly soiled, one table- 
spoonful to two gallons of water. 

The above measurements should be varied according 
to the soiled condition of the clothing. 



LEMON SALTS (POISONOUS). 

In the treatment of colored goods with the salts of 
lemon, first ascertain if the colors are fast. This test 
is made by applying to some (out-of-the-way) part of 
the goods, a little of the solution. If after an hour the 
color remains the same, an application of the solution 
may with safety be made, as per directions. (See 



"Fruit Stains.") 



66 



JAVELLE WATER. 

This is a valuable and useful agent to be used in the 
soaking of clothing. It may be made of different 
strengths, and used according to the soiled condition of 
the goods. This is one of the most powerful of mixtures 
for dissolving dirt and bleaching or whitening of cloth- 
ing. It is, however, destructive to the fiber if allowed 
to remain too long. It must be most fully and com- 
pletely rinsed out of the fiber of the clothing or it will 
surely rot the goods. It may be used about twenty 
minutes for soaking and then most thoroughly rinsed 
out of the material. 

This water may be used in the place of washing soda^ 
or borax for cleansing purposes and in addition to its 
cleansing properties, it is valuable as a bleaching 
product. 

It will cleanse almost the dirtiest of linen and at the 
same time will whiten or bleach to a remarkable degree. 
The best Javelle water is made as follows: 

Four pounds of bi carbonate of soda 
One pound of chloride of lime. 

Put the soda into one gallon of boiling water, place 
over a fire and boil for fifteen minutes, then add the 
lime, being careful that no lumps get in. Thoroughly 
stir until well mixed and then set away in a proper dish 
to cool. 

This mixture is used to remove fruit stains from 
white underwear. 



67 



WASHING COMPOUND. 

A good washing compound is made as follows: 
Into two quarts of water put two and one-half pounds 
of good soap-poAvder and when thoroughly dissolved 
add three tablespoonfuls of powdered borax, three 
tablespoonfuls of powdered washing soda and one 
tablespoonful of turpentine. 

This mixture is prepared in warm water. After it 
has become thoroughly mixed by stirring, let it cool. 
AYhen it has hardened it can be cut into desirable size:^. 
for use. This is a most excellent compound for cleans- 
ing purposes. 



AMMONIA. 

To get the best results from ammonia in washing 
clothing it should not be turned into hot water as it is 
very volatile and especially so when it becomes heated. 
At the boiling point, seven-eights of the ammonia will, 
become dissipated, while, if used in cold water, ver}' 
nearly the full effect or benefit is obtained from its use. 

However, if the clothing is put into the boiler, in cold 
water, and the boiler then placed over the fire, am- 
monia may be used to decided advantage as, under such 
conditions, there will be ample time for the ammonia to 
act upon the dirt before evaporation sets in. 

For cleansing glass, ammonia is far superior to any 
soap on windows, mirrors, etc. It should not, however, 
be use on copper or brass articles as it will dissolve or 
eat into these metals if too strong. It is one of the best 
of articles for cleaning the hairbrush. Use one tea- 
spoonful to one quart of water. 



68 



TURPENTINPl 

Turpentine should not be used in hot water if the 
hands are to be put into it, as the turpentine, when 
heated, is readily absorbed and, with some people would 
result in injury to the hands. It may, however, be 
used in cold water with perfect safety or to advantage 
in the soaking tub when cold water is used. It may be 
used in the soaking tub in hot water, if the hands are 
kept out of it ; in which case the results upon the cloth- 
ing are excellent. 



SALT. 

All articles having a color that may likely be injured 
in the washing, should be soaked in a strong solution 
of salt water. Use from three to five heaping teaspoon- 
fuls of salt to each quart of water, and soak for ten 
minutes, then wash in the usual amount of soapy water 
and rinse, taking care to have the last rinsing water 
well salted. 



HOW TO DISINFECT LINEN. 

All linen, used directly or indirectly in the sick room 
or in connection with cases of measles, scarlet fever and 
any and all other infectious diseases should be sprinkled 
with a two per cent, solution of cresylene, immediately 
it is taken from the person, bed or room and before it 
is sent to the wash, in order not to^ further spread the 
disease. This treatment strongly sterilizes in twenty- 
four hours. 



69 



STAINS. 

How best to safely and satisfactorily remove stains 
from clothing, to most people, is a perplexing problem. 

Before washing look carefully over all of the articles 
to be washed and lay to one side any stained pieces foi* 
special treatment. 

The removal of stains should always be before they 
are wet for the reason that the commingling of hot 
water and soap, with the stain, generalh^ sets the stain 
and makes it more permanent and consetpiently more 
difficult of removal. 

In pouring water upon a stained spot, it is always 
better to stretch the stained part over a bowl, as in this 
way it is easily held in position and only a small iDortion 
of the cloth becomes wet. 



ACIDS. 

Acids should be kept in bottles and tightly corked; 
As some acids are poisonous it would be wise to label 
ail bottles containing such solutions and mark them 
plainly as POISONOUS. Use a medicine dropper 
whenever acids are applied for the purpose of remov- 
ing stains. In this way the acid is placed just exactly 
where it is wanted and where it will do the most good. 



ACID STAINS. 

It often happens that acids of one kind or another 
gets on one's clothing, thus destroying its color. At 
the first opportunity spirits of aminonia should be ap- 
plied; then, to restore the color, apply chloroform. 

70 



OXALIC ACID (POISONOUS). 

This is prepared for use as follows: 

Oxalic acid, when kept in solution, should always 
have a deposit of the crystals at the bottom of the bottle 
in order to have, as near as possible, the full strength. 

Into one gill and a half of soft water, dissolve one 
ounce of the crystals of oxalic acid. Keep this in a 
well corked bottle and labeled POISON. Use with a 
dropper. When desired for use take equal parts of 
water and solution and shake well together. This is 
used for iron rust. After the use of this acid and rins- 
ing, saturate the spot with a solution of ammonia. This 
will remove from the cloth any possible injury that 
might result from the use of the oxalic acid, then 
thoroughly rinse again to remove the ammonia. 

CAMPHOR FOR STAINS. 

Fruit stains of all kinds, upon napkins or upon table- 
cloths, may be removed by applying camphor. This 
must be applied before the stain has been wet with 
water. 

INDELIBLE INK. 

This stain upon white goods is often taken out by 
soaking the spot in strong cider vinegar. When the 
stain has been removed wash in warm suds water and 
rinse. 

IODINE. 

This is one of the many stains to which towels and 
bed linen are subject. As a rule this stain remains per- 
manent. However, as nearly all iodine is of varying 

71 



strength it is sometimes washed out in soft water when 
not allowed to stand too long. That failing a soaking 
for a few hours in milk and rubbing the spot with the 
fingers will likely remove it. 

Should either of the foregoing simple remedies prove 
a failure, cover the stain with corn starch, wet in milk 
and let stand until the stain has disappeared. Should 
the stain resist under this treatment remove the paste 
of corn starch and make a new application after three 
or four days. No rubbing is necessary. This latter 
treatment has been used successfully, after a stain has 
remained for months. Should the stain be upon wood, 
apply as above and after six or eight minutes, rub until 
the stain is removed. 



SUGAR, SYRUP OR MOLASSES STAINS. 

First, try and remove with hot water. Stretch the 
stained part, if the nature of the goods will permit, over 
a bowl and pour on the hot water, manipulating oc- 
casionally with the fingers. Should this treatment fail 
use pure alcohol. If the colors are doubtful or poor, 
use spirits of wine instead. If the color has been in- 
jured apply chloroform to restore. 



AXLE GREASE. 

Axle grease upon any garment should first be re- 
moved with a dull knife, also oil or other greasy sub- 
stances, after which the spot may be treated by the ap- 
plication of plenty of powdered white chalk and then 
brushed out with a whisk or brush broom. Repeat this 
operation until ail the grease is removed. 

72 



Powdered borax having a cutting tendency when ap- 
plied to dirt is sometimes nsed more advantagiously 
and is preferred to the chalk. 

Should there be any grease spot left, apply ammonia 
and then chloroform to restore color if that has been 
injured. 



SPOTS ON CLOTHING. 

In all attempts to remove spots of any kind upon 
clothing it is very important that all rubbing should 
be in a direction from the edge, toward the center of 
the spot, that is, rub from the clean cloth, not toward 
the clean cloth in order to avoid a possible ring of dis- 
coloration all around the outer rim of the spot. 



WATER STAINS. 

If silk or an.y glossy article has been stained by water, 
rub carefully with a soft silk handkerchief and then 
turn and rub the stain with a polished iron on the 
wrong side. 

Should this treatment not be sufficient to remove the 
discoloration, dilute pure alcohol fifty per cent., and 
saturate a clean piece of flannel and rub the stain over 
lightly and quickly, then turn the silk and iron on the 
wrong side. 



STAINS OF VINEGAR, WINE, FRUIT, JUICES. 

Stains of vinegar, wine, fruit or juices upon violet, 
black or deep red colors are generally restored by the 
use of ammonia. If the stain is a slight one the am- 

73 



monia sliould be diluted with water, fifty per cent. 
Where the stain is upon goods of a color different from 
those mentioned above spread over a bowl and care- 
fully rub into the meshes of the cloth fine table-salt, let 
rest and after ten or twenty minutes apply boiling- 
water. 

GRASS STAINS. 

Stains from green grass or other vegetable substances 
are, usually, difficult of removal. Stains of this char- 
acter should be treated before they have become tod 
dry, before the coloring matter has had time to become 
set into the fiber of the goods. 

Their treatment should be as follows: Into three or 
four spoonfuls of buttermilk, put as much fine table 
salt as can be dissolved, then rub this mixture into the 
stain and lay it in the hot sun until dry, and then wash 
out. Should there still be traces of the stain remain- 
ing, repeat the operation. 

Another method is to soak the stain in kerosene oil or 
in alcohol, for an hour or more, as may be necessary, 
then wash out in cold water, then wash out again in hot 
water and soap. Unless the stain is of too long stand- 
ing little if any trace of it will be found after a few 
weeks. 



COFFEE, MILK OR TEA STAINS. 

Soaps of any kind should never be applied to a coffee 
or tea stain because the coloring matter contained in 
either tea or coffee, when combined with the alkali of 
soaps, often makes a fast color. 

While the cloth is still wet with a tea or coffee stain, 
pour over it soft boiling water. Pour the water through 

74 



the stain so as not to spread it out over the fabric 
Should the color prove hard to remove, sprinkle upon 
the stain, powdered borax, then dampen it and let stand 
for a few minutes and again pour over it boiling water. 
Be sure that the water is boiling as a less temperature 
would tend to set the stain in some fabrics. 

Another method is to use a mixture made as follows : 

One teaspoonful of ammonia, 
Two teaspoonfuls of glycerine. 
Eighteen teaspoonfuls of water. 

For removing coffee and milk stains this is excellent 
It must be used before the cloth has been wet Avith 
water. 

As coffee and tea stains are of almost daily occurrence, 
this mixture should be kept on hand, ready for use at 
a moments notice. 

If the stain is small, place it over a cup and with a 
clean cloth w^et the stain with the mixture, rubbing 
toward the center of the stain. Let the saturated spot 
stand for two or three minutes and then pour through 
it hot water. 

Not having the above preparation at hand, take the 
yolk of an egg and mix it in a little warm water and 
rub it into the stain, let it set for an hour and wash 
out. If trying to remove an old stain, add to this a 
few drops of alcohol and treat as above. 



FRUIT STAINS. 

At once a stain is discovered it should receive im- 
mediate attention by spreading it over a bowl and pour- 
ing water over it and by rubbing with the fingers. In 
this manner much or all of the stain can be worked out 
of the goods. 

75 



Another method is to spread the stain over a bowl 
and rub into the meshes of the cloth the salts of lemon. 
If the stain is fresh, this treatment will almost invari- 
ably be sufficient. 

Do not use soap upon the stain, as by far the greater 
portion of fruit stains are natural dies and, when com- 
bined with the alkali of soap, make a more or less per- 
manent coloring. 

For berry or fruit stains the fumes of sulphur 
(matches will sometimes answer the purpose) will fre- 
quently remove all traces and sometimes whiskey upon 
a stain can be used to good advantage. 

When a stain has become old and resists the hot 
water application, make a little bag of that part of the 
cloth where the stain is and put into that a teaspoonful, 
more or less, according to size of the spot, of cream o'^ 
tartar, put this into cold water and set to boil. 

At the time of getting a fruit stain upon table linen, 
if noticed, and while yet moist, sprinkle upon it table- 
salt or powdered starch and as soon as convenient, pour 
hot water through the stain if salt is used or brush out 
if starch is used and then wash out in cold water, 
(See ^' Juice Stains.") 

The foregoing number of methods for the treatment 
of fruit stains has been given because in different lo- 
calities (see article entitled "Localities") the condi- 
tions involved vary greatly in the nature of similar 
stains but for the greater portion of fruit stains in all 
localities (see article "Camphor for Fruit Stains"). 

GREASE STAINS. 

Grease, in some form or other, is a substance that is 
ever present and always liable to get upon one's cloth- 
ing. These grease spots may be removed by alcohol, 

76^ 



turpentine, chloroform, benzine or ether. By the use 
of any of these substances, however, there is always 
the liability of a stain being left in the sha})e of a ring 
about the former grease spot, unless the work is very 
carefully done. 

Before any at'empt is made to make use of the above 
named articles, the grease spot may be sprinkled with 
plenty of powdered chalk; let stand for a few minutes 
to absorb the grease or oil, then brush the chalk out with 
a whisk broom. This operation, repeated several times, 
will remove most grease spots and does no injury to th(f 
goods. After the above treatment to white goods put 
them in water and boil for a few minutes. The heat 
will melt out any remaining oil so that it will float on 
the surface of the water. Skim or pour off the top of 
the water before taking out the clothing, so as to avoid 
getting them into the oil floating on the surface of the 
water. Should there be any stain left, after a thorough 
brushing, then some one of the above named liquids 
may be used, as in dry cleaning, always rubbing toward 
the center of the spot. 

Ether or alcohol effect many colors. 

Benzine or naphtha are preferable to use upon either 
woolens or delicate silks. 

Another excellent remedy or formula for removing 
grease spots is to use alcohol, water, ether and strong 
ammonia in equal parts. "With a cloth rub the liquid 
toward the center of the stain. Be careful and not 
have too much moisture. For every two or three 
rubbings use another piece of cloth as it soon becomes 
soiled and then will not clean properly. 

Grease spots on carpets should be heavily sprinkled 
with powdered chalk to absorb the fatty substances, but 
in case the chalk is not at hand use finely powdered 
starch. After sprinkling, let it stand awhile and then 

77 



brush out with a whisk broom. Brush into a dust-pan 
and, if necessary afterwards, treat with benzine as in- 
dicated above. 

Following is an excellent formula for removing 
grease stains : 

Dissolve one tablespoonful of salt in four tablespoon- 
fuls of alcohol. Apply this to the spot with a clean 
piece of flannel or sponge. This compound is very 
frequently used to advantage when some form o? 
grease remover has been used and has left a color 
around the edge of the stain. This compound should 
never be used when near a fire as it is exceedingly in- 
flammable. Keep this mixture tightly corked in order 
to prevent evaporation. (See article on '^Gasoline.") 

INK STAINS. 

By accident, ink may get upon one's clothing, upon 
upholstered furniture or upon the carpet. In such 
cases, while the ink is still wet, sprinkle liberally over 
the spot, powdered chalk and let it stand for a mo- 
ment or two to absorb the ink. Put on as much chalk 
and more than can be absorbed by the ink, then brush 
out with a whisk broom. Repeat the operation until 
all of the ink has been removed. The use of chalk, 
freely, upon wet ink, where it can be used, is probably 
better than any other substance for the treatment of 
the stain. 

Chalk is highly porous, more so than the fiber of the 
spot upon which the ink has fallen and it consequently 
absorbes the ink moisture at once. The chalk should 
not be brushed out if too damp but more chalk should 
be spread on and brushed out when in a crumbly con- 
dition. 

(a) Immediately, while the stain is wet and fresh, 
78 



dry cut with a blotter and if the article will permit, 
soaking in milk will often remove all traces of the ink ; 
but when it has once become dried it is difficult to re- 
move the stain v,'ithout injury to the cloth. 

(b) If the ink has dried, place the stain in boiling 
water for five minutes, then stretch out and rub into 
the stain salts of sorrel, then thoroughly rinse. 

(c) Dry ink spots are sometimes removed by using a 
teaspoonful of salaratus in a cup of hot water. Make 
the strength of this »iiixture vary according as the spot 
is new or old. 

(d) Copying or marking ink should be treated with 
a strong solution of bleaching powder and after this, 
treat with a solution of oxalic acid and rinse thoroughly 
in cold water and dry. 

(e) Ink stains upon white goods; soak the spot over 
night in a solution of salts of lemon (one-half pint of 
water to a few drops of the salts of lemon). Let soak 
for ten or twelve hours and then lift the cloth out of 
the water to see if the water is colored or the ink spot 
is disappearing. If not, add a few drops of the salts 
and again put to soak. When the spot has somewhat 
weakened, wash out in warm water and then in suds 
water. Should traces of the stain still remain repeat 
the operation in a weaker solution. 

(f) Ink spots upon colored goods, where the colors 
Avill not run, may be treated with salts of lemon. 

(g) Many ink spots may be wholly removed by the 
use of oxalic acid, rinse out and then use chloride of 
lime. (See article "How to Use Chemicals.") 



79 



MILDEW. 

Mildew is one of the most troublesome of stains with 
which the housewife has to deal. It attacks the fiber 
of the goods more forcibly than most other stains and 
frequently colors it permanently, while at other times 
it wholly destroys it if not attended to in season. Mil- 
dew seems to be more natural to some goods than to 
others. 

It is a vegetable or fungus growth, caused by warm 
and damp air or where there is dead air or lack of 
circulation of air, acting upon unclean spots of cloth- 
ing, owing to lack of thoroughly washing and especially 
to lack of rinsing. 

Too great care in the case of mildew cannot be taken 
because such stains are easily transferred to other 
articles of clothing with which it may come in contact. 

There are a number of methods for the treatment of 
mildew, each with a varying degree of success, one 
method working well while another Avill have little effect 
in removing the stain so that more than one kind of 
treatment is sometimes necessary to be given to the 
same stain. The different conditions under which mil- 
dew is brought about is, undoubtedly, responsible for 
the necessity of different treatment for mildew found 
in one locality from that found in another. 

(a) To remove the stain, place the mildewed article 
upon the table, draw out smoothly and, with a rag, rub 
off as much as possible, then rub fine salt upon the dis- 
colored part and places and over this freely sprinkle 
powdered chalk, then moisten by a fine spray_ or 
sprinkle and dry in the sun. In severe cases it may be 
necessary to repeat the operation several times. Rinse 
well, each time. 

80 



(b) A mixture for pasting upon the stain is made 
as follows: 

One tablespoonful of salt, 

Two tablespoonfuls of powdered starch, 

The juice of one good lemon. 

Two tablespoonfuls of soft soap. 
Mix these ingredients thoroughly then, with a brush, 
cover both sides of the stain and then spread out upon 
the grass and let remain, day and night, until the stain 
disappears. 

(c) Soap and common white chalk in equal parts, 
thoroughly mixed and rubbed into the mildewed spot, 
will generally remove the discoloration, provided the 
mildew has not already eaten out the life of the fiber. 

(d) Rub mildewed spots thoroughly with as much 
salt as can be dissolved in lemon juice and then expose 
the spot to the hot sun. Delicate fabrics will not be 
harmed by its use. 

(e) The foregoing remedies are for the easier form 
of mildew stains, but where the stain seems to be hard 
and fast a more severe treatment is required in order 
to remove the stain. 

For this purpose use potassium permanganate by 
dropping upon the soiled cloth with a medicine dropper, 
AVash out with warm water and then, if necessary, ap- 
ply oxalic acid: this will remove any brownish coloring 
that may be left in the goods. (See article on "Potas- 
sium Permanganate.") Also (see article on ''Oxalic 
Acid.") 

(f) Experiment in the use of acids should be made 
upon some unexposed part of the cloth in order to find 
out if the solution can be used full strength without 
injury, if not dilute a little and try again. This is 
necessary because the cloth resistance to acids would be 
of an unknown quantity. 

81 



(g) Use Javelle water with dropper, drop on the 
spot and wash out with hot water. (See article on 
''Javelle Water.") 



PAINT STAINS. 

(a) While the paint is still unhardened, turpentine, 
well rubbed in, will remove paint stains from all cloth- 
ing; but when the paint has become dried, take equal 
parts of ammonia and turpentine and with it saturate 
the spot thoroughly and, when well softened, wash out 
with strong suds. 

(b) Paint stains of long standing, on cottons or 
vroolens, may be softened by rubbing on butter or olive 
oil. Let it stand two or three hours and then rub the 
spot with chloroform. After the paint has been re- 
moved, should there be a greasy spot remaining, rub 
it with pure benzine. 



MUD STAINS. 

(a) In the treatment of mud stains, first wash out 
as much of the mud as can easily be done, then wash in 
a diluted solution of hydrochloride acid and after that 
wash in a weak solution of chloride of lime. 

(b) A simple way to remove mud stains on black 
material is to rub the spot with a piece of raw potato. 

(c) Muddy spots upon white dresses, remove by 
washing in a solution of carbonate of soda, in water; 
lay the soiled spot upon a white cloth and sponge, fre- 
(juently changing the sponge cloth. 

(d) The resistance of mud stains to treatment is 
very largely due to the fact that all mud from the 
streets is impregnated with minute particles of iron 

82 



wliieli, upon being wet, forms an iron rust and this, 
spattered npon the clothing, causes a discoloration. In 
the event of any of the stain remaining, after treat- 
ment as above, use oxalic acid. (See article on "Iron 
Rust") 

BLOOD STAINS. 

Blood stains are among those that are most difficult 
of removal. 

(a) Prepare a starch in the usual form for use and 
then lay a thick covering over the place, putting the 
starch on quite wet. Let it rest until dry, then brush 
out with a whisk broom or stiff brush. This method in 
most cases will remove all traces of color but if not, re- 
peat the operation. 

(b) Wet the spot in warm water, hold it in a wash 
basin and sprinkle over it a liberal amount of fine salt. 
Have only sufficient water to dissolve about seventy- 
five per cent, of the salt. After resting an hour or so 
rinse in several waters, rubbing between the hands. If 
the stain is sufficiently removed let the article go 
through the regular wash if not repeat the treatment. 

(c) Place the article stained in cold water to soak 
for twenty-four hours. Rinse and wring out and then 
put through the regular wash. 

(d) By many a heavy salt water is used for the 
soaking purpose. In some instances cold and in other 
instances warm water gives the best results. A trial 
will decide which is the better method to use. Different 
situations require a longer or shorter time for soaking. 
This is determined upon trial. 

Whichever of the foregoing methods of treatment 
proves most satisfactory should be adopted after trial 
and adhered to in all future regular wash day cleaning, 

83 



CREPE, RUSTY, ETC. 

(a) Into equal quantities of skimmed milk and 
water (four to eight quarts, according to stiffness de- 
sired) put one teaspoonful of liquid glue, thoroughly 
mix and put over the fire to boil, then dip in the article, 
clap with the hands, pull to shape and dry the same as 
with muslins. 

(b) Another method is to brush out all dust and 
dirt, fold lengthwise, roll smoothly and tightly and then 
steam it until thoroughly dampened, then dry without 
removing from the roll. 

(c) Crepe is very effectively cleaned by rinsing in 
ox gall water; this is to remove the dirt, then rinse in 
clean water to remove the ox gall, then rinse in water 
slightly gummed to crisp it, then slap between the 
hands until dried. 



TAR STAINS. 

A stain resulting from tar is one of the most diffi- 
cult of removal and in any event a discoloration will 
very likely be left upon the cloth even after the tar has 
been removed. 

(a) First, take a table knife and remove as much 
of the tar as possible, then rub the spot with benzine, 
rubbing toward the center of the stain. In some cases 
equal parts of turpentine and ammonia give better re- 
sults. 

(b) Although not found recommended by any au- 
thority, repeated experiments have shown that kero- 
sene applied to tar stains upon cloth or upon the hands 
very satisfactorily removes many of the various com- 
pounds of tar. Saturate thoroughly the soiled part 
with kerosene and with the hands rub the spot until it 

84 



lias loosened the tar and then wash out with hot watei" 
and soap. Rinse in warm water. PY^llowing this treat 
nient, ammonia may be nsed if there are traces of color 
remaining and if the color of the goods has been in- 
jured, restore with chloroform. 

SEWING MACHINE STAINS. 

While sewing, stains resulting from the oil used upon 
the machine often get upon the cloth and then time 
causes the spot to turn yellow. These stains, generally, 
are the result of having used too much oil. Before 
])utting the goods into the general wash this oil should 
])e removed by rubbing the spot with liciuid ammonia, 
a weak solution at first. If the stain is not fully re- 
inoved use a stronger solution of the ammonia and 
tlirow into the general wash. 

VARNISH STAINS. 

Varnish stains should be removed from any clothing 
at the earliest possible moment Saturate the spot 
thoroughly with alcohol, let rest for a few moments and 
repeat the operation several times, until the varnish be- 
gins to crumble, then sponge with a clean cloth. 
Should the color of the cloth be weakened, sponge the 
(;l()th with chloroform ; but in the case of a blue, sponge 
with vinegar or acetic acid. These substances are very 
harsh to the hands of some people and should be used 
with much care. 

CIGAR ASHES. 

A most excellent article for removing ink stains upon 
I'lirniture is cold cigar ashes, rubbed into the stain. 
Use no moisture with it. Polish with a chamois skin. 

85 



SCORCHED CLOTHING. 

There is always a liability of clothing becoming 
scorched while undergoing the process of ironing. Such 
being the case, there should be kept, ready for instant 
use means to counteract the injury caused from any 
scorching. This is done b}^ the use of a mixture made 
as follows : 

(a) Bake, thoroughly, a good sized onion — do not 
bake long enough to dry out — and squeeze out all of the 
juice; into this put a tablespoonful of vinegar, one 
tablespoonful of a good soap-powder and one ounce of 
fullers earth. Heat this mixture until it is fully 
dissolved, stirring Avell while on the stove. When 
thoroughly dissolved, allow to cool and then put into a 
large mouthed bottle or other receptacle convenient to 
use, and when required rub all over the scorched place 
and let it dry, after which, the cloth should go through 
the wash. 

(b) Traces of scorched or burnt cloth may be almost 
wholly removed and frequently, entirely so, as follows: 

One-half ounce of castile soap, cut into ver}^ thin 
slices, or better, pulverise it if it can conveniently be 
done; 

Two ounces of fullers earth, such as may be secured 
at the druggist, or if not to be had, the same amount 
of Chinese clay; 

The juice of two peeled onions (size, two inches in 
diameter). 

Put into pan and boil, frequently stirring until 
thoroughly dissolved. When partially cooled, pour 
into some suitable receptacle and set away to cool, when 
it will be ready for use. With a smooth, clean knife 
spread the paste over the scorched spot, working it into 
the fiber and then let it remain on the cloth until 

86 



thoroughly dry — six to ten hours — then wash out in 
luke-warm water and hang to dry. 



IRON RUST. 

Iron rust is one of the most difficult of all stains to 
remove from the clothing. The discoloration of cloth- 
ing by iron rust is very common and is most difficult 
to avoid with the methods prevalent in washing and to 
the appliances in general use. How did it all happen? 
The laundress is never quite able to decide and the 
cause is never quite certain. If there is a rusty nail or 
a speck of iron against which the wet clothing may rest 
or rub, no matter where, in the tubs or while hanging 
to dry, discolorations are sure to result. Rust stains 
are of different kinds and qualities for which different 
methods are employed for their removal. 

(a) Lemon juice, mixed Avith table salt, thoroughly 
i^ubbed into the fiber will easily remove some rust stains. 
After being wxll rubbed into the cloth, let it get per- 
fectly dry, then shake and dust out and the spot will be 
found to have disaj)peared. 

(b) Lemon salts are also used to advantage in the 
removal of rust stains. 

(c) Dip a cork in muriatic acid and touch the stain 
with it. When the stain has turned yellow dip at once 
into hot Avater, rinse slightly then dip into previously 
prepared ammonia and Avater (a tablespoonful to one 
quart of Avater), then thoroughly rinse and dry. 

(d) Place the stain over a large boAAd and sprinkle 
over it finely powdered oxalic acid and then slightly 
moisten the powder wdth Avarm water and let stand 
from one to two minutes, according to AAdiether the 
stain is of long or short duration, then pour upon it 
boiling AA^ater. 

87 



(e) Spread upon or over several thicknesses of 
^/hite cloth, sprinkle with finely powdered oxalic acid 
and then dampen the powder and over this place a wet 
cloth, well wrnng out, and then on this place a fiat- 
iron sufficiently heated (about 165 Fahrenheit) to make 
a good steam. This steam will greatly help to force 
the stain down through the lower cloth, that is, dis- 
sipate it. 

This last method for most stains is preferable. 



TO PREVENT COLORS FADING. 

The colors of many varieties of dress goods often 
fade in the process of washing. This, in a large de- 
gree, can be prevented by the following treatment: 

(a) In one gallon of water dissolve one desert- 
spoonful of ox gall and put the material to soak in it 
for ten minutes before washing. 

(b) Borax for washing any colored material is 
hiuch to be prefered to any soap. (See article on 
''Borax.") 

(c) The same amount of ox gall should be used in 
each water through which the material is passed, wash- 
ing, rinsing, etc., in order to hold the color. 

(d) For materials having analine colors, put about 
one-third of a cup of white wine vinegar into one gal- 
lon of Avater. This use in the last rinsing water. This 
treatment is good for greens and i^inks. 

(e) For blue lawns, to set the color, dissolve one- 
fourth pound of saltpeter in six quarts of water and 
dip the goods in this and wring out from this several 
times before washing. 

(f) Stains of most all kinds, in delicate fabrics of 
colored material may, often wholly and always in part, 

88 



be removed by the use of soap-suds and a little am- 
monia. The natural tendency of the ammonia, of 
course, would be to injure the color, but the soap acts 
as a preventive. Use a teaspoonful of ammonia to a 
half pint of suds. 



CURTAIN COLORING. 

Many people do not care for a curtain that is purely 
white, yet there are others who rarely change the color- 
ing of their curtains from that given to them by time. 
If a change is desired it is easily made as follows: 

Put no bluing into the starch, but use water that has 
been slightly colored with coffee for ecru. 

Saffron may be used for coloring by mixing it in 
with the starch, before starching. 

A little logwood will give a delicate pink hue. 

For a gray color, use raw umber with a very slight 
sprinkling of lampblack. 

For a tinted rose color, use vermillion and red lead, 
three to one. 

For a lavender color, vise indigo blue, tinted with 
vermillion. 

For a lemon yellow, use chrome yellow, with a 
sprinkling of Spanish brown. 

For a buff hue, use Indian yellow and brown sienna, 
two to one. 

For a lilac color, use Prussian blue and vermillion, 
two to one. 

Use a hot iron, and iron while the curtains are damp. 
Iron over a piece of musin. Work the iron slowly. 

When coloring curtains, in order to be sure of the 
right tint or shade, start in with the above mentioned 
proportions and if not to the liking change the color 

89 



by the addition of water if the color is too strong and 
if more color is desired, add more of the coloring in- 
.gredient, nntil the right color is obtained. Try or test 
the color by dipping in it some other article before 
dipping in the curtain. 



BLISTERING. 

Blistering is generally due to bad starching, or to in- 
sufficient wringing or to ironing the articles when too 
wet. Any one of the above conditions or any two or 
three of them will produce blistering. 



PREPARATIONS FOR STARCHING. 

Wipe clean the dish that is to be used in starching so 
that no dust or dirt in any form may remain in the 
dish to get into the starch. Use water that has no 
coloring in it and water that is soft is much preferable. 

The addition of a little bluing water to the starch 
also gives more satisfactory results. 



STARCH. 

All articles that have been hot starched should be 
thoroughly dried before being sprinkled, prior to iron- 
ing, otherwise there will not be a uniform stiffness to 
the goods, also, there would be a tendency of the starch 
sticking to the iron. 

90 



STARCHING. 

If the goods to be starched are bulky, be sure to have 
a pail or pan sufficiently large so that it will give room 
to work the starch thoroughly into the goods. 

Linen is starched, after having been dried or im- 
mediately after having been blued and w^hile yet wet. 

The starching is done by dipping the article into the 
liquid starch, w^hile it is hot and then thoroughly work- 
ing it into the meshes of the goods with the hands or by 
running through a wringer and then wdth the hands 
pressing and squeezing out as much of the starch as is 
possible. 

For table linen, etc., dipping into the starch and then 
Avringing out will be quite sufficient; 

Starch those articles that require most stiffness, first 
and dilute the starch as less stiffness is required in other 
articles, diluting with either hot or cold water, accord- 
ingly as the starch is either hot or cold that is being 
used. Immediately starching is finished hang to dry. 

Table linen wall keep cleaner, have a better appear- 
ance and last much longer and keep in better shape if 
slightly starched. 

The more thoroughly the rinsing and also the wring- 
ing of all clothing has been done, while going through 
the wash, the better the starching can be done, for if 
too much water remains in the goods, especially soap 
water, the strength of the starch will be weakened and 
the clothing will, consequently, not have enough stiff- 
ness. 

Collars and cuffs are frequently starched a second 
time, in order to give them a greater degree of hardness. 
Colored goods should not be heavily starched and the 
starch should always be boiled ; but to prevent the colors 
from fading, the starch should be used when it is nearly 
cold. 

91 



For colored table linen, a starch water is generally 
quite sufficient. Starch glazes are not advisable for 
colored table linen. 

Some kinds of common starches have a tendency to 
make colored fabrics fade. To prevent this, use a 
starch made from rice, boiled or steamed. 

A starch made from rice will not effect the colors 
of any material. 

For black goods, a starch called mourning starch 
should be used, treating the same as above. 

To thin boiled starch, do not use cold but hot water. 

Freezing weather or strong winds always have an in- 
jurious effect upon starched goods, therefore it is ad- 
visable to avoid having them out in either freezing or 
windy weather. 



MAKING THE STARCH. 

In making starch, use only water and dishes that are 
perfectly clean. 

In dissolving the starch, use two tablespoonfuls of 
cold water to one of the starch. When the required 
amount of starch has been dissolved, put it into a large 
pan and slowly pour upon it boiling water until the 
whole mass reaches the desired consistency and then 
place over a fire to boil for fifteen to twenty minutes, 
stirring steadily all the while until it is done. 

To a starch solution (about six quarts) the addition 
of lard, butter, wax or white candle, about the size of 
half or two-thirds of the thumb; or instead, two table- 
spoonsful of kerosene oil, will prevent the irons from 
sticking to the cloth. 

The above named substances are in general use; but 
a far better article is to be had by using a little borax 

92 



in the starch. The amount of borax used by different 
ironers is variable, but for two quarts of starch one 
teaspoon, level full, for general use is about right. This 
use of borax serves a double purpose in starching as it 
whitens the clothing and also prevents the irons from 
sticking. 

If the clothing is required to be very stiff, use two 
tablespoonfuls of starch, add four tablespoonfuls of cold 
water and then dissolve, pour on it, one half pint of 
boiling water and boil ten minutes, constantly stirring. 

For dresses, shirts and like articles, use the same 
amount of starch and one quart of water. 



STARCH SURFACES. 

Collars, cuff's, shirt bosoms, etc., should have laid over 
them a piece of cheesecloth while, being ironed. When 
the article is about half dried, remove the cloth and 
with the hot iron, iron upon the starched surface. 



STARCH GLAZES. 

In order to secure a high gloss upon starched sur-^ 
faces, a fat or wax is sometimes mixed with the starch, 
while it is hot. 

There are, however, several good makes of starcli 
glazes that are perfectly safe to use, and besides, very 
satisfactory results are to be obtained by their use. 

Owing to their peculiar preparation, their use is 
much easier than what are termed "home-made' 

One should always buy those glazes that are easily 
soluble in either hot or cold water. 

93 



TO MAKE COLD STARCH. 

Put the proper amount of starch into a pan, add cold 
water, just enough to mix easily, stirring and working^ 
out all of the lumps and specks of starch. Gradually 
add more water, steadily stirring, until the right con- 
sistency is obtained, then strain through fine muslin 
when it will be ready for use. This preparation may 
be further diluted if necessary for articles requiring a 
different degree of stiffness. 

After the starch has been used, put it away and let 
it stand over night and in the morning, pour off the 
water, doing it carefully so as not to disturb the starch 
and this can be used as a boiled starch at the next wash- 
ing. 

A REASON FOR MANY STARCH FAHjURES. 

(a) Clothes unevenl}^ dampened. 

(b) Too much bluing used. 

(c) Clothes insufficiently rinsed — consequence, soap 
left in clothing. 

(d) Clothes not washed clean — slighted in places. 

(e) Clothes blister; starch insufficiently worked in- 
to the fiber. 

(f) Clothes starched and hung in snow storm, be- 
come gray. 

(g) Starch frozen after clothes have been hung to 
dry. 

SPRINKLING OF CLOTHING. 

For ironing, clothing should never be made too wet, 
only dampened, and this should be done about thre^.' 
hours before ironing, with the exception of colored 
clothing. 

94 



Spread each article to be sprinkled upon a clean 
table or board, pull into shape, then sprinkle, the finer 
the spray the better; a whisk or brush broom, serves a 
very good purpose, dipped lightly into the water and 
shaken over the goods. Dipping the fingers into water 
and with them trying to sprinkle clothing, is an ex- 
cellent method, for doing the poorest possible kind of a 
job. 

After each piece is sprinkled, if it is rolled together 
it will dampen more evenly and mil be less liable to 
dry out in spots, than if folded flat. 

Put the sprinkled articles as soon as rolled into a 
basket, within which has been placed a dampened sheet 
and in this wrap all of the sprinkled articles, in order 
to keep them from drying out about the edges. 

Starched articles, such as table linen, handkerchiefs 
and thin articles, need a heavier sprinkling than do 
towels, bed linen, etc. 

Colored goods, if finely sprinkled, shoukl be ironed 
within the hour. 

If one is in a hurry to get at the ironing, much time 
may be saved by the use of hot, instead of cold water 
when sprinkling, as then the clothing will be ready for 
the iron in ten to fifteen minutes after sprinkling, and 
a further advantage is to be had because the iron does 
not cool as rapidly. 

IRONING. 

As soon as the starched articles are sufficiently dried 
and ready for the ironer, each piece should be taken 
separately and, if too dry, dampened a little with a wet 
sponge or pad, the latter being preferable. The heavier 
articles should be ironed while they are damp, and the 
lighter articles when only slightly so. At the first con- 

95 



tact of the iron upon the goods, pass it rapidly over the 
cloth. Do not iron sidewise with the iron but to and 
from you. While at work, keep the irons hot and by 
so doing time will be saved. Starched articles like 
collars and cuffs that have to be turned down, should 
be turned while warm and just as soon as, or a little 
before, the ironing is finished or the}^ will be likely to 
crack. 

First, iron two or three towels, then a sheet or pillow 
slip, then the starched goods, ironing between times a 
towel or other article to tone or trim up the irons. This 
will have a tendency to keep the irons cleaner and freer 
from the sticking of starch. 

Iron dry all starched articles or their stiffness will 
be lost. 

Iron colored goods upon the wrong side. 

With practice (four to eight washings), patience and 
perserverance, mosit any one can become a good ironer 
and, it is well for any good housewife to know how ! 

Many articles upon which an iron is used, should 
always be ironed upon the wrong side, while there are 
others that should be ironed under or between cloths. 
All table linens, center pieces and doillies should be 
ironed upon the wrong side, over folds of soft flannel, 
and if there is any plain part, it may be ironed between 
cloths but on the right side. Colored goods, Hamburgs, 
etc., iron upon the wrong side. Muslins, dotted Swiss. 
etc., iron between soft flannels. 



WAXING IRONS. 

Use a wax that can generally be had at any grocery 
store. Put the wax into a cloth and tie tightly, into 
a little bag, if one is not already provided with the Avax. 

96 



This makes the handling of the wax much easier and 
also keeps it free from dust and waste. 

In using, rub lighth^ and quickly over the iron then 
wipe and the iron is ready for use. 

When the starch has been properly prepared and 
when the rinsing, wringing and bluing have been 
propei'ly done, waxing of the iron may be almost wholly 
dispensed with. 



TO IRON SILK HOSE. 

After thoroughly drying, iron under a slightly 
dampened muslin cloth. 



IRONING FLANNELS. 

In a large majority of cases, flannels, in order that 
they may retain their natural softness and fluffiness, are 
better not ironed. If, however, it is thought necessary 
that they should be ironed, do so under a dampened 
cloth, pressing heavily. The iron should not be too hot. 
Too much heat kills the life of all Avoolen fiber, whether 
from the iron or from hot water. 



EMBROIDERIES. 

Embroideries should be placed face down upon a 
thick piece of flannel or, what is better, if the embossing 
is heavy, upon a thick Turkish towel and iron upon the 
wrong side. 

This lets the raised work stand out; otherwise it 
would be flattened down and its beauty and effective- 
ness materially impaired. 

97 



I>OLISHINa. 

Iron the goods as elsewhere described, then with a 
wet cloth, wipe the ironed surface (not too wet, nor too 
dry), then use the polishing iron. Press hard and move 
the iron quickly. Heat the iron to about one-half or 
two-thirds that used in the regular ironing. 



IRONING SHIRT-WAISTS. 

Before ironing a shirt-waist that has been cold- 
starched, turn the sleeves and iron them on the Wrong 
side, iron the neck-band out straight, until it is dry^ 
then iron the back and all around the band, armholes, 
shoulders and front of the waist, then turn the sleeves 
and iron them again, and when finished the work will 
h.ave been easily and neatly done and in a manner that 
vrill give satisfaction. 



IRONING WET POPLINS, SILKS, ETC. 

If a hot iron is used on wet poplins, silks, etc., their 
color will very likely be changed; sometimes to a bad 
crimson or to a very satisfactory pink; but what the 
resulting color wdll be from such application it is never 
safe to hazard even a guess. Yellow turns to a brown, 
light green turns to a dirty blue, etc. Silks will shrink 
and also change in color if a too hot iron is applied to 
them while they are damp. 



98 



IRONING MUSLINS. 

No matter in what form muslins are presented to be 
ironed, it should be most carefully done. Sometimes 
better results are to be had by quickly pressing the iron 
down upon the muslin and then lightly and rapidly 
move the iron back and forth. 



IRONING SILKS. 

Silks should not be sprinkled for the reason that they 
are easily spotted. 

Iron them just before they are dry. 

As a rule, this class of goods should be ironed be- 
tween cloths as a much better appearance will thus be 
obtained than if the silk came in direct contact with 
the heated iron. A too hot iron, in contact with any 
silk, is more than likely to injure it and the chances 
are that it will be wholly spoiled. 

Silks should be ironed when onh^ very slightly 
dampened. Highly colored and delicate silks should b-3 
ironed when nearly dry and great care should be taken 
that the iron is not too hot or the color will be per- 
manently injured. 

Silks should first be ironed upon the wrong side and 
with the iron only fairly hot, after which, turn the 
article face up and place over it two or three pieces of 
muslin and then iron on the right side. This last treat- 
ment will give added luster to its surface. 

If the silk has become too dry to iron well or if it 
has become unevenly dried, reroll in a damp cloth as 
before. 

Silk underwear should always be pressed upon the 
wrong side. 

99 



It is always advisable to use a light cloth between 
any silk and the iron, owing to the fact that the fiber 
is animal and like that of wool, also animal, heat above 
156 degrees Fahrenheit will destroy the fiber and at 
this temperature, the iron must not be allowed to rest 
upon any one spot but must be kept in brisk motion. 
Sometimes a temperature at 145 wdth doubtful colors 
would be preferable. 

BLACK SILK. 

A black silk, oftentimes might be used were it not 
for the fact that its appearance is against it. Its con- 
dition may be made much more satisfactory in many 
instances as follows: 

Dip an old piece of silk into a weak solution of 
coffee water and wring it out and with it rub wherever 
it is desirous of improving the appearance of the silk. 
Care should be taken and not get the goods too Avet. 

SILK HANDKERCHIEFS. 

There is nothing equal to borax in Avarm w^ater for 
washing siik handkerchiefs. In some cases a very mild 
soap may bo added to the washing water. Do not rub 
but squeeze and press the handkerchief and do not 
twist-wring but squeeze out from all rinsing waters. 
"Wringing would likely stretch parts of the silk out of 
position. Drying between cloths is preferable. 

WHITE SILK. 

White silk may be greatly improved as follows : Take 
the required amount of powdered starch or powdered 
chalk and into this, only slightly, sprinkle a little blu- 

100 



ing, then over the particular spots to be whitened, 
rub this mixture and then brush out with a whisk or 
brush broom. Do not use too coarse a brush in order 
to avoid streaking of the goods. 



PINK SILK. 

Pink and like colored silks are best cleaned by using 
white bread crumbs, by rubbing them carefully over 
the soiled part and then lightly brushed out. 



CREAM COLORED SILKS. 

Cream silks being of the same character as pink 
silks may be treated in the same manner. 



SILK WAISTS. 

Before silk waists are laid or packed away for any 
length of time the shields should always be removed as 
the rubber in them is very injurious when it comes in 
contact with silk and after a time will cause the silk to 
crackle and break up into small pieces with the result 
that the article is ruined for use. 



RAINDROPS 

Light colored silks frequently have a shrunken or 
shriveled appearance when exposed to raindrops. Such 
silks are generally fully restored by ironing them on 
the wrong side. A piece of muslin should always be 
used between the silk and the iron. 

101 



SATINS. 

In the event of satins becoming greasy they may be 
cleaned with benzine or a weak solution of borax water. 
In sponging these goods the brushing should always be 
lengthwise, never across the weave of the goods and 
they should be ironed upon the wrong side and under 
a piece of muslin. 



PINK, WHITE OR CREAM SATINS. 

The treatment for these goods should be the same as 
that given for cream colored silk. 



PINK COTTON. 

Goodo of this color, after washing, frequently have 
a faded appearance. This is owing to the fact that 
some of the color has been taken out in the water 
through which it has passed. This color, not too 
strong, has been sufficiently weakened so that some- 
times the value of the dress is nearly destroyed. This 
class of goods should never be blued but, instead, a few 
drops of red ink should be added to the rinsing water. 
This treatment will have a tendency to greatly freshen 
the garment. 



CLEANING GLOVES. 

Unless badly soiled, gloves may be rubbed with 
powdered white chalk or stale bread crumbs but, should 
there be stains upon them benzine may be used when 
only spotted here and there. 

If the whole glove requires to be cleaned; firsts tak? 
102 



but tke stains as explained above and then dip them in 
the benzine. If they are very badly spoiled dip them 
in two or three times, press out, pull into shape, blow 
in them and hang where they will slowly dry and just 
before they are quite dry, stretch into the shape desired. 

Another very successful cleanser for gloves is gaso- 
lene. Place the glove to be cleaned upon the hand 
then dip wholly into- the gasolene for a moment and 
then with a clean cloth rub the soiled parts and hang 
in the open air to dry. Any odor will soon disappear. 

Cleaning by use of gasolene, however, should always 
be done in the daytime and thereby avoid all danger. 
Owing to its volatile nature there is always danger of 
serious accident especially if working where its fumes 
are blo^Ti toward any light or fire; therefore, if the 
cleaning can not be done where there is plenty of day- 
light it had better not be attempted. The risk to which 
one may be liable are not worth the price of the gloves. 



CHAMOIS LEATHER. 

To wash, first saturate the leather in a heavy soap 
water; then with borax soften a sufficient amount of 
water for use and into it put the article to soak for 
forty-five to seventy minutes. 

Give a thorough and careful rinsing and then wring 
out in a thick cloth or Turkish towel and place where 
it will dry quickly. The drying, however, should never 
be near a fire. When it has dried, pull it into shape 
and work it over and over between the hands to 
soften it. 



103 



SUMMER SUITS. 

As all summer goods are more likely to fade than not, 
particularly if there is any color in them, precaution 
should be had by using a heaping tablespoonf ul of good 
salt in each quart of wash water, to prevent fading. 

It is better that soap, no matter how good it may be, 
should never be applied directly to any goods having 
the least color to them; in fact, soap should be used 
indirectly upon all washable articles. This is done by 
dissolving the soap and using in the wash water where 
it comes in contact with the fiber evenly. "Wash and 
rinse quickly. Turn and hang in the shade, all colored 
goods. White goods may be hung in the sun or spread 
upon the grass. Use thin starch and iron upon the 
vfrong side. 



COLD WATER WASHING. 

Certain kinds of acids, fluids or compounds, used in 
cold water have a powerful cutting and penetrating 
force; in fact, the chemical friction or action that is 
set up in the goods is far heavier and harder, not only 
upon the dirt but also upon the fiber of the clothing 
than any • rubbing or pounding machine and the de- 
struction of the cloihing is correspondingly great, but 
used carefully and properly they are of great assistance 
to good washing, lightens the labor and saves time. 
(See article ''How to Use Chemicals.") 

DRY CLEANING. 

Every housewife and every laundress should 
thoroughly understand and know liow to do what is 
called "Dry Cleaning." 

104 



All articles of clothing that are worn are, at times, 
liable to become stained from a great variety of causes. 

Knowing how, and with a little patience, these soiled 
articles of one's apparel may be fully restored to their 
former appearance. (See article on '^How to Use 
Chemicals.'' 



CREASING TROUSERS. 

Trousers may very easily be kept creased by ironing 
them once a week as follows: 

First, with a whisk broom remove all dust and dirt, 
then with a damp cloth which has been rubbed slightly 
upon paraffine or naphtha soap, clean off all spots, 
when this has been well done, place the pants on a table 
or ironing board, the whole front upward and smoothe 
out flat one leg and pull into shape. "Wring out a wet 
cloth (see article on "How to Sponge or Press Clothes") 
the length and width of the pants leg and lay it 
smoothly over the leg and press with a hot iron. 

Treat the other leg in the same manner and hang to 
dry. 

When well dried, the next process is to place the leg 
upon the ironing board, putting the seams together, 
working out all wrinkles, then apj^ly the dampened 
cloth as above directed and iron slowly, using the^ 
proper amount of pressure upon the iron. 

The iron should be hot enough so that when it comes 
in contact with the damp cloth it will send a steam 
down through the goods quickly. 

Pants treated in this manner will be well cleansed, 
will look fresh and clean and if careful will hold this 
appearance often a week or more. 

There is quite an advantage in first ironing out with 
105 



the cloth dampened and drying, and after dry, creas 
ing. The extra time required, over one operation, more 
than repays one. 



CLOTHING— FIRE-PROOFING. 

The fire-proofing of clothing, especially for yonng 
girls wonld, no doubt, on occasions prove of inestimable 
value in preventing much suffering and possibly the loss 
of life. This is inexpensively and easily accomplished 
in any one's own home, at the time of the regular wash- 
ing and is done as follows : 

Into the starch, used for muslins or other light and 
fluffy material used for dresses, etc., put an ounce of 
alum or sal-ammoniac to about three or four quarts of 
the starch when ready for use. This renders such ma- 
terial uninflammable to a large degree and if set on 
fire, would little more than smoulder. 

All clothing of children should be treated; also any 
one wdth loose, flowing or hanging garments working 
around a cook stove or fire, would do well to arm them- 
selves against any accident from fire. 



TOWELS. 

A towel or any article that is regularly used for dry- 
ing the face and hands should be given more than usual 
care to have it thoroughly washed but, important as 
this may be, the drying is of still greater consequence 
before it is put away in the linen closet. If it is not 
fully dried in the ironing it should be laid out to dry 
for, if it is packed away with other linen — while damp 
• — it will gather moisture; and then oidium, a parasitic 

106 



fungus, apparently a form of mould, may gather on the 
towel. After, if this towel is used upon the flesh a 
form of skin disease results in many cases. 



CLEANING FEATHERS. 

Before putting feathers to use, it is highly important 
that the animal oils or fats should be removed from 
them, otherwise they are very likely to become filthy, 
especially if subjected to any continuous amount of 
heat, in which case they will emit an unpleasant odor. 

A good cleanser is made as follows: Into one gallon 
of water, put one pound of chloride of lime and when 
this is thoroughly dissolved, stir in the feathers. At 
the end of three to five minutes, according to the con- 
dition of the feathers, pour off the water and rinse them 
in several waters and be sure to remove all lime that 
should happen to be left upon them. 

Feathers that are merely dirty from dust and the 
like, may be cleansed in hot water and soap, afterwards 
rinsing them out in hot water. 

The addition of a little bluing to the last rinsing 
water is to be recommended. 



SWAN'S DOWN. 

Swan's down is washed by tacking it on to strips of 
muslin and then wash in a warm suds-water. Rinse 
w^ell, then hang in the wind and when dry, cut care- 
fully from the muslin and rub slowly between the 
fingers, taking care not to break or injure the fiber. 



107 



COAT COLLARS. 

Coat collars may be cleaned by the use of benzine, 
but it should be used sparingly, always brushing or 
wiping away from the unsoiled part, that is, toward the 
center of the soiled part or spot. If the soiling has 
taken out the color of the goods, rub with a weak solu- 
tion of borax or ammonia. 

When a coat collar, dark cloth, has become very 
badly soiled or spotted, kerosene oil will thoroughly 
cleanse it of dirt. Wet the place to be cleaned and 
then with a table knife, carefully scrape by sliding the 
knife, flat down upon the cloth. This will take up the 
oil or soap where it has been rubbed on and along with 
it the dirt. Repeat the operation until the dirt is all 
removed. 

To remove any greasy effects left upon the cloth, rub 
with ammonia. 



HATS. 

Men's dark hats may be cleaned around the sweat- 
band, inside and out, in like manner as are coat collars. 
(See "Coat Collars.") 



WHITE SILK LACE. 

If the lace has become yellow it may be fully restored 
as follows: 

Into four quarts of skimmed milk, put one table- 
spoonful of powdered borax and, into that liquid, steep 
the lace (do not boil) twenty to thirty minutes. Rinse 
but do not rub. Squeeze out. 

If more than the natural stiffness is required, dip in- 
108 



to water to which a little gum arabic has been added 
Iron upon a flannel and under a piece of damp muslin. 
Use a hot iron. 



PONGEE SILKS. 

Pongee silk is generally considered to have ^ passed 
its day of usefulness when it has become soiled or 
wrinkled. 

With a little patience and careful handling, this 
article may be thoroughly renovated as follows: 

First, soften a sufficient amount of warm water with 
borax, then dip the article into this water and squeeze 
it between the hands but do not rub. 

Rinse in cool water and then hang to thoroughly dry. 
When it is ready to be ironed, lay it over a flannel, 
cover with a linen or cotton sheet and iron. 



SHRINKAGE OF SILKS. 

Oftentimes raindrops, falling upon silks, will give 
them the appearance of a shrinkage about the spot 
that was wet. This appearance may almost, if not en- 
tirely, be removed by turning the dress and ironing the 
spots on the wrong side. Use a piece of muslin over 
the silk when ironing. 



CLEANING SHAWLS. 

First, thoroughly brush and shake out all of the 
dirt, then sprinkle over it a finely powdered white 
starch so as to evenly cover the goods and put away for 
six or eight hours or over night will do. 

The starch has a tendency to obsorb any fatty 
109 



particles that may have gotten on it and also the durst 
will adhere to it. "When ready remove the starch by 
thoroughly brushing and beating and shaking until the 
starch is wholly out of the goods. 

RESTORING COLORS. 

When the color of any garment has been damaged bv 
acid it may be partly, and sometimes fully, restored by 
the use of chloroform. 

If a color has been destroyed, at once, or as soon as 
convenient, apply ammonia. This will neutralize the 
acid, when a free application of the chloroform will 
often fully restore to the original coloring. 

RENOVATING VARIOUS FABRICS. 

Colored articles, died with either pink, blue or green, 
etc., often turn to a bad yellow, when such dies have 
come in contact with an alkaline substance. 

Such colors may be almost wholly restored by di^oping 
them in a weak solution of tartaric acid. Should this 
treatment not prove sufficiently restoring, a very w^eak 
solution of sulphuric acid may be used to advantage. 

In using either of these solutions, it should be tested 
on some unexposed part of the garment, in order to 
get at about the right strength of the solution, before 
the article is dipped into it. The strength of the solu- 
tion should be varied to suit the occasion and to the 
conditions required. 

BLACK CASHMERE. 

Black cashmere should never be rubbed while under- 
going the process of cleansing. Put in a warm soap 
water and dip it up and down, changing the position 

110 



of the goods constantly. The only friction used upon 
the goods should be by pressure between the hands. 
The wash water is prepared as follows : One tablespoon- 
ful of ammonia to about four quarts of water. The 
rinsing and bluing water should be warm. Just before 
the article is dry it should then be ironed upon the 
wrong side. Use an ironing cloth over the goods. 

WHITE CASHMERE. 

The treatment of white cashmere is the same as that 
for black, with the exception that, instead of using am- 
monia, use one tablespoonful of powdered borax and 
rinse in warm water that has been slightly blued. 

Just before the article is dry it should be ironed upon 
the wrong side. Use an ironing cloth over the goods. 

SERGE. 

Serge is cleansed as follows : Use a heavy suds-water, 
nearl}^ warm and rinse thoroughly in several waters 
that are somewhat warmer than was the washing water 
and hang to dry at once. Just before the article is dry 
it should be ironed upon the wrong side. Use an iron- 
ing cloth over the goods. 

MERINO. 

Merino should be washed quickly, in a warm, thick 
suds-water. Soap should not be rubbed into the goods 
at all. Dip up and down and squeeze with the hands 
instead of rubbing w^hich is injurious. Rinse in a num- 
ber of waters and at once hang to dry. 

Just before the article is dry it should be ironed upon 
the wrong side. Use an ironing cloth over the goods. 
(See article on '^Woolens.") 

Ill 



PRINTS, CALICOES, ETC. 

For washing cotton goods of a light color, prints, 
calicoes, etc., use water just fairly hot. Do not rub 
soap upon any part of the goods but put them into a 
good suds- water and wash quickly, rinse in several 
waters and immediately hang to dry. 

Before washing as per above, read article on ''Colored 
Goods." 

EIDER DOWN. 

Use luke-warm water and a suds of castile or some 
other equally good soap. Rub between the hands. Two 
waters in the washing should be used and sometimes a 
third wash water is desirable. Rinsing should be very 
thoroughly done. When well dried comb against the 
nape, using a clean, coarse comb. In the first washing, 
if not sure that the color is fast, sugar of lead may be 
used to prevent fading. The soaking in this w^ater 
should be determined according to the fastness of the 
color, four to eight minutes and sometimes twelve min- 
utes would be better. This, however, should be decided 
b}^ keeiDing a close watch as to the color. 

GINGHAMS. 

(1) Into one gallon of water, a little more than 
luke-warm, put one-third of a cup of table salt and 
after it has fully dissolved, put in the material and let 
it soak five minutes, then squeeze out the water between 
the hands until it is cleaned satisfactorily. Rinse m 
two or three waters and hang to dry. If the article 
is very badly soiled, after it has remained in the soak- 
ing water a sufficient time, it may be put into a soap 
water and washed out. 

112 



(2) Another method is as follows: For soaking the 
garment, use one tablespoonful of turpentine to each 
four quarts of luke-warm water. Put the garment in- 
to this for one hour, after which wash in warm suds 
and very thoroughly rinse. 



IRONING CAMBRICS AND POPLINS. 

Fine cambrics and poplins should be dampened 
freely, before being ironed. Do not have the iron too 
hot ; not above 156 degrees Fahrenheit, when ironing be- 
tween cloths, and not above 145 if iron is in direct con- 
tact — without the cloth, this ironing should always be 
upon the wrong side. 

If the iron is more than moderately hot, discoloration 
will result. All delicate articles should be ironed be- 
tAveen cloths. It is much better that the iron should 
never touch such goods. (See article on "Ironing "Wet 
Poplins or Silks.") 



CAMBRICS. 

The treatment given for ginghams, first paragraph, 
can be given for cambrics. 



SILK NECKTIES, RIBBONS, MUSLINS, ETC. 

These articles should have the appearance of being 
slightly starched or stiffened. This is done best by the 
use of a little white gum arable or a little blued starch, 
dissolved in warm water. Use this in the last rinsing 
water which should be perfectly clear. 

113 



LAWNS. 

Lawns should be treated the same as ginghams, 
article one. 

The freshness of delicate lawns will be destroyed if 
allowed to become too dry, as the wind blowing them 
about will cause them to become limp. 



VERY LIGHT FABRICS. 

Fabrics, such as silk, etc., that need more stiffness 
than naturally results from the ironing, should be 
dipped into soft water, in which has been dissolved a 
very little white gum arable. 



POPLINS. 

Should more stiffness be recjuired for poplins, dip 
them into a weak solution of isingglass w^ater. (See 
article ''Silk Neckties.") 



MUSLINS. 

If muslins require more stiffness, they should be 
treated as for poplins. (See article "Silk Neckties.") 



COTTON WAISTS. 

This class of goods can be treated equally as well as 
silk waists. (See article "Silk Washing.") 

114 



COTTON GOODS. 

Cotton articles should not be put away for any 
length of time, for a winter or season if there is any 
starch in the goods as the starch has a tendency to rot 
the fiber or to weaken it if left in for any considerable 
length of time. 



VELVETS. 

When light colored velvets have become more or less 
soiled they may be much improved and freshened by 
rubbing the soiled parts with fresh-cut stale bread. 
Rub in the fresh bread as long as the bread continues 
to become soiled and then brush out. 



RIBBONS. 

Some ribbons are advantageously washed, or rather 
cleansed, by the use of benzine, but only where the 
colors are fast. They should be ironed by covering 
over with tissue paper. This will have a tendency to 
absorb any greasy substance that may have remained 
in the ribbon. 



TO SPONGE OR PRESS CLOTHING. 

Into one quart of warm water, put a very small 
amount of white soap, when sponging clothing for iron- 
ing or pressing. This will greatly improve the appear- 
ance of the garment. 

115 



WHITE FELT HAT, TO CLEAN. 

LTse a paste made of cornstarch and gasolene and 
thoroughly rub it into the felt and then hang to dry out 
of doors. When thoroughly dried, brush out with a 
stiff brush. This whole operation should be done away 
from any light or fire. 



SWEATERS— WASHING. 

A sweater, after having been washed, is sometimes 
found to have stretched badly. Instead of hanging it 
on a line to dry put it inside of a pillow case or other 
suitable bag and pin to the line to dry. In this man- 
ner, stretching by the weight of the water in it, will be 
avoided. Do not hold it in such a manner as^ to bring 
a strain upon any part of it — rather, keep it bundled 
together until put in the bag. 



FLOUR SACKS— TO REMOVE LETTERING AND 
CLEAN. 

After the flour has been removed from the sack, rub 
over the lettering a thin coating of lard, then roll the 
sack tightly together and lay away for a week, then 
wash in the usual way. These sacks make excellent 
dish towels. 

BLACK SPOTS 

As to the cause of black spots appearing upon linen, 
opinions are quite varied. However, this one fact has 
been thoroughly established, that, after a second wash- 
ing, such spots often entirely disappear. 

This tends to show that the hot iron has been merely 
116 



the means of making certain that all of the dirt, sweat, 
grease, etc., had not been entirely removed from the 
goods while passing through the wash. 

These spots are more apt to appear in shirt bosoms, 
cuffs and collars, although other starched articles are 
sometimes badly spotted. 

After a thorough washing of the articles having black 
spots, give them a more thorough rinsing in order to 
entirely remove any discolorations from the linen. 



SOCKS AND STOCKINGS. 

All colored goods should be allowed to remain in the 
water the least possible length of time. 

Into about one pail (eight quarts) of warm, heavy, 
soap water, put two tablespoonfuls of salt. Do not rub 
them with soap. First, wash the feet, then wash the 
whole article, rinse in cold water and at once hang to 
dry. 

Silk socks should be treated in like manner, but care- 
fully squeeze out the water instead of wringing by 
hand. Otherwise, run through a wringer. 



WASHING WOOLEN SHAWLS. 

When washing shawls, knitted garments, capes, etc., 
and more especially those garments made from wool, 
soap should never be rubbed upon them. 

To one gallon of water, add soap or soap-powders, 
sufficient to make a strong suds, then add one table- 
spoonful of kerosene oil and one tablespoonful of am- 
monia. 

Place over a fire and when the water is as hot as the 
hands can bear put in the shawl and wash, squeeze and 

117 



rub with the hands all soiled parts. Rinse in warm 
and then in cooler water. Put a tablespoonful of salt 
in the last rinsing water to brighten and fasten the 
colors. Wring out wdth a wringer — never twist-wring 
by hand, and fold carefully and hang to dry. When 
nearly dry, iron under an ironing cloth. 

Knitted woolens, bed covers, etc., may be treated in 
the same manner. 

CLOTH CURTAINS AND DECORATIVE 
HANGINGS. 

When it is undesirable to put these articles through 
the wash, they may be nicely cleaned by the following 
method: After shaking out all of the dirt that is pos- 
sible, beat very carefully and thoroughly brush them, 
then stretch the article upon a suitable table and rub 
it with stale bread crumbs. Use white bread. Rub 
thoroughly, every part of the goods. As fast as the 
crumbs become soiled, throw them away and use new- 
ones. In this manner, go carefully over every part of 
the article. Sometimes it wdll be necessary to go over 
the article a second time but it will repay in the better 
appearance that will result. 

Dark colors may be benefitted by rubbing with am- 
monia, but they should only be dampened, never wet. 

For light colors, use a strong solution of borax water ; 
rub quickly and lightly and then hang to dry. 

To take out any stains, dip the erasing cloth into the 
solution, and commencing at the outer edge, rub toward 
the center of the stain as this method will prevent the 
color from spreading. Use a very little liquid in the 
operation. To dry, soak up the moisture with a dry 
cloth and then sprinkle with powdered white chalk and 
brush out with a whisk broom, brushing lightly. 

118 



WHITE ORGANDIES. 

These with care may be washed at home much more 
satisfactorily than is done at the average laundry. 
Soap should not be applied directly upon the article but 
a suds-water should be used instead. 

First, put any soiled part into the suds and squeeze 
the suds into the fiber, and let soak for five or ten min- 
utes, according to condition, then the whole piece should 
be put in and with the hands rub carefully until all is 
thoroughly cleansed. Have the rinsing water warm 
and use several of them. 

Another good method is to wash fine dresses, if the 
colors are fast, in naphtha soap in water that is barely 
warm. Lawns, ginghams and nulls are very satis- 
factorily treated the same way. 

Dissolve five cents worth of gum arable in one quart 
of water and dip the dress in this, put through the 
wringer and just before dry, iron. This will add to the 
appearance of the dress when a little stiffer. 

Organdies should never be allowed to become too dry 
or to be on the line too long as too much wind will 
make them limp and take away all freshness. 



DRAWN WORK. 

Drawn work should never be rubbed while it is going 
through the wash but it should be squeezed and pressed 
between the hands. Put into warm suds to soak for ten 
or fifteen minutes, then squeeze out in several rinsing 
waters, put into a pail and pour boiling water upon it, 
completely covering and let stand until the water has 
become cool enough to squeeze out Use a blued starch 
water, work it well into the goods and again squeeze out. 
Smoothe out evenly and roll up in a dry cloth. This 

119 



should be dry enough to iron in thirty or forty minutes, 
ironing upon the wrong side, over a Turkish towel or a 
thick flannel will answer all purposes. 

Some prefer that the goods should be dried upon a 
line. There is no objection to this if it does not hang 
where the wind will switch it about as in such case 
there is a liklihood of the article being damaged by 
threads being unduly strained and often broken. 



QUILTS. 

If the quilt has a variety of colors it should first be 
put into a strong salt water (test the strength of the 
water by tasting) for three to five minutes, wash and 
thoroughly rinse in a number of waters when it may 
be spread to dry upon the grass. If, however, one can 
only dry upon a line, spread the quilt across as many 
lines as possible. This will give it very nearly a flat 
surface and prevent the cotton from knotting and also, 
should the colors prove weak they will not be apt to 
run into each other and thus destroy the neat appear- 
ance of the quilt. 

After the quilt has been completely sun-dried (care 
being taken that it is not placed too directly in the hot 
rays of the sun as that would possibly fade the colors) 
fold several times and lay out flat and beat it with a 
stick or cane. Refold and beat until all parts have been 
treated mth the stick. This will loosen up the cotton, 
thicken the quilt, make it soft and fluffy which is quite 
a desirable factor in any bed quilt. 



120 



RED TABLECLOTHS. 

A red color, as a rule, fades more readily than the 
general run of colors and it is for this reason that 
greater care should be taken when any of this class of 
goods are to be put through a washing. 

To wash table linen or other goods that are dyed red, 
use one tablespoonful of powdered borax to about three 
gallons of tepid Avater. Where there are colors the 
washing should be rapidly done, one article at a time. 
A very little soap should be used and this not applied 
directly to the cloth, on account of fading, but should 
first be dissolved and added to the wash water. All 
rinsing should be done in warm water. 

Into the last rinsing water put a little boiled starch 
and hang in the shade and when it is nearly dry the 
ironing should be done. 

Any red tablecloth should never have a very hot iron 
placed upon it for the reason that there is a tendency 
of the color to weaken or gradually fade out every time 
the process is repeated. 

A very good way is to fold the cloth and put it under- 
some board and put the irons upon it for an hour or 
so leaving it under pressure. 



WASHING FLANNELS. 

Flannels should never be rubbed, scrubbed or twisted 
while suffering the washing process. If a person is at 
all particular they will never put them into a washing 
machine that will bring them between too hard rubbing 
substances such as rollers, pins, cross-bars and the like. 

Flannels should never be soaked, if the process can 
be avoided or rubbed as such treatment, almost invaria- 
bly, will cause a shrinkage of the goods. If badly 

121 



soiled, kowever, ten to fifteen minutes soaking in warm 
water is permissable and when they have been washed, 
rinse them in warm water, never in cold water, and 
hang to dry in a warm place. 

For washing flannels the water should be softer than 
when washing other goods or linens. As far as pos- 
sible, soda or potash should not be used in washing flan- 
nels as these articles have a tendency to turn them to a 
yellowish tinge. 

Soap of any kind should never be rubbed on flannels, 
neither should soap powders be sprinkled or allowed to 
come in direct contact with them. Always wash them 
in soapy or in a suds water. 

All rubbing, squeezing or hand wringing, tends to the 
shrinkage of woolen goods. 

The use of water too hot is always an injury to 
woolens and to hot will utterly destroy them. 

The shrinkage is not due as many imagine to some- 
thing that may be added to the washing water but as 
above stated. 

LACE WASHING. 

A very satisfactory method for washing genuine 
laces is to fill a glass fruit jar about half full of suds of 
a strength, according to the soiled condition of the lace, 
put the lace in the jar and then place the jar in a kettle 
of warm water (not warm enough to break the glass), 
place the kettle over the fire and bring it to a boil for 
an hour, then squeeze out the water, rinse in warm 
water thoroughly and then roll in a Turkish towel or 
flannel t$ dry and when nearly dry, instead of ironing, 
pin on to an ironing board that is padded, cover with 
several thicknesses of clean cloth and over this place a 
board and weight it, so as to press the lace out smoothly 
and let stand for an hour or two. 

122 



To wash small pieces of delicate lace or strips of lace, 
use a light suds-water and rinse in warm water. To 
dry, fill a bottle full of hot water and wind the lace 
around the bottle. 

Only in rare cases should lace be rinsed in blumg 
water. Rinsing in skimmed milk will give it a soft 
creamy color. 

LACE CURTAINS. 

When the condition of the curtain will permit it may 
be washed and hung out. Instead of ironing stretch 
them out over papers spread upon the floor, the figures 
and lines being brought into place and pinned down to 
hold them in position. In many instances this method 
of treatment proves very satisfactory and is easily done 
by any one. 

HANDKERCHIEFS. 

As is well known, the handkerchief is an article for 
personal convenience, for use in sudden emergency, for 
either the nose or for the mouth. This receptacle, 
owing to the nature of its use, should be either de- 
stroyed — burned — or thoroughly disinfected, at least, 
every time it goes through the wash. 

Its disinfection is easy and simple, as follows: Into 
four quarts of warm water put one-half gill of crude 
sanitas, stir well and then drop in the handkerchiefs, 
after they have been cleansed as directed ^sewhere, 
let them rest ten minutes in the solution, occasionally 
stirring them, wring and hang to dry. 

Should there be the least suspicion that the hand- 
kerchief has been exposed to contamination it should 

123 



never be carried about on the person but at first op- 
portunity drop into a solution as above stated and 
afterward washed. 



LACE HANDKERCHIEFS. 

Lace handkerchiefs may be easily washed by using 
castile or other equally good soap in warm water to 
which has been added six or eight drops of ammonia. 
Do not rub but work the water into the fiber thoroughly, 
between the fingers and hand, until every thread is 
soaked through, then let it remain in the water eight 
to fifteen minutes, then w^ash out by squeezing out of 
the water again and again, then rinse through several 
waters. It is better not to iron but spread on marble or 
like smoothe surface, pulling into shajDe. When nearly 
dry, spread out and fold evenly and place between dry 
cloth and place under a weight of three or four pounds. 



BLACK LACE. 

In washing black lace use one teaspoonful of borax 
to one pint of warm water. Do not rub but squeeze 
out the dirt with the hands. Black lace should never 
be dried before a fire as to do so would more than likely 
turn its color giving it a rusty appearance. 

Roll between a dry, clean cotton cloth to dry, being 
sure to have the ends covered so that the edges do not 
dry out. 

If the lace is to be sponged, use a piece of black kid 
glove. 

Another method for washing black lace, and which 
is claimed by a great many people as superior to any 
other, is to wash it in stale beer, drying as above. 

121 



SILKS. 

The soaking of silks should be attended with great 
care and they should be watched over closely for any 
possible change in color. 

The soap used should be quite mild and the water 
barelj^ more than warm. 

Rubbing is quite apt to disarrange any lines, there- 
fore it is a better plan to squeeze out many times with 
the hands. 

Fine table salt should be used to fix the colors, two 
or three tablespoonfuls to each four quarts of water. 
(See article on "Salt.") 

Salt should be added both to the washing and to the 
rinsing water to hold the colors in all light blues, green 
or black silks. 

For blacks, use one or two tablespoonfuls of ammonia 
in about four gallons of water. This amount should be 
varied according to the strength of the ammonia and 
also to the soiled condition of the garment. 

For pale green, pink or red silks use pure cider vine- 
gar, two to four tablespoonfuls to four quarts of water, 
the am^ount depending upon the strength of the vine- 
gar in both the washing and rinsing water. Work 
rapidly and keep the goods in the water the least pos- 
sible time. 



SILKS— WASHING. 

Silks, handled rightly, are easily cleaned. Soaps of 
any kind should never be rubbed upon silks of any de- 
scription; neither should silks ever be boiled as to do 
so would utterly ruin them. The use of washing soda 
in water for washing silks would, almost invariably be 
injurious. If a silk has become soiled to such an ex- 

125 



tent tliat it needs cleansing, use a very mild, fine quality 
of soap which should first be dissolved in warm but not 
hot water: into this, dip the silk and when thoroughly 
saturated by pressing it between the hands, let it soak 
for an hour or two, according to its condition, then 
rinse in several waters, each a little cooler than the 
former. Silks should never be sprinkled or hand 
wrung. Merely press out the water between the hands 
or wring through a wringer and dry by rolling in a 
dry towel. A little gum arable, dissolved and used in 
the last rinsing water, gives to silks, laces, crepes, etc., 
a stiffness and luster that is quite pleasing. 

White pongee and colored silks may be similarly 
treated. 

If white silks are unusually soiled, borax water, one 
tablespoonful to two gallons of water, can be used to 
advantage in the washing suds. 

Another method for washing silk waists and which 
is preferred by many is as follows : Grate three potatoes 
about the size of an egg, into a pint of soft, milk-warm 
water; let this stand, stirring occasionally, for a couple 
of hours and then strain through a coarse sieve or cloth, 
into four quarts of water and when this has settled 
pour into a bowl and in this wash the waist. Rinse in 
clear water and dry as above. This process often gives 
a newness and finish that is very gratifying. 



TO CLEAN FURNITURE. 

The general appearance of furniture may be much 
improved by rubbing well with a soft rag dampened 
with kerosene. An extra amount of rubbing should be 
given to any stained spot. Polish with a chamois. 

126 



ZINC MATS. 

Zinc mats are easily cleaned with a mixture of wood 
ashes and kerosene. A substitute for wood ashes ma}^ 
be had in any fine grit that will not scratch. It also 
may be found in some makes of soap or scoureen. Polish 
with a soft rag. 

CHOCOLATE STAINS. 

Chocolate stains should first be washed out in warm 
water until the bulk of the stain is removed, then wash 
in suds-water. 

COCOA STAINS. 
Cocoa stains should be treated as for chocolate stains. 



TO CLEAN CORSETS. 

Corsets are cleaned with a mixture of ammonia and 
soapy water (care being taken not to have too much of 
a suds). Apply with a stiff brush, rinse off and dry. 



PARAFFINE SOAP. 

A good paraffine soap may be made at home very 
easily and at little expense as follows: 

Cut into thin slices, one pound of good bar soap. Put 
this into just enough water to dissolve thoroughly ; keep 
this on a warm stove until it is thoroughly melted, then 
add four tablespoonsful of paraffine (liquid), mix well 
and then set to cool. Later, cut into sizes to suit con^ 
venience. 

127 



POTATOES. 

Take a potato, the size of a hen's egg, grate it and 
then add a half pint of water. Stir well and let stand 
for twenty-four to forty hours when it will be ready 
for use. Laces, ginghams, sateens, silk garments, sum- 
mer waists, children's frocks, sashes and black or white 
la\^Tis may be cleansed or stiffened by use of this 
mixture. It is a most excellent article for such use and 
gives a fine effect. 

GALL. 

The use of a little gall in the last rinsing water for 
purple and yellow colors is beneficial. 



SALTS OF SORREL (POISONOUS). 

Salts of sorrel, although poisonous, are not injurious 
to fabrics of any kind of white goods. (See article 
'^nk Stains.") 



CLEANSING FLUID. 
A good cleansing fluid is made as follows : 

Two ounces of good soap, dissolved in 

One pint of boiling water and when dissolved add 

Two ounces of powdered borax and when nearly cool, 
bottle and set aside until next day: then add 

Two quarts of water. 

One ounce of ether and 

One ounce of alcohol. 

Stir, or better still, shake until thoroughly mixed. 
Keep tightly corked. This is good for many stains of 

128 



grease, dust, coat collars, etc. In applying, use equal 
parts of compound and water. Use brush or cloth in 
cleansing. Hang until nearly dry and then iron under 
clean thin cloth. Have iron about 160 degrees Fahren- 
heit. 

(Finis) 



329 



INDE 



PAGE 

Acid Stains 70 

Acids, oxalic 71 

Action, chemical in washing 62 

Alkalies 59 

Ammonia 68 

Articles Required in Laundry 40 

Ashes, cigar 85 

Axle Grease « . 72 

Black Cashmere 110 

Black Lace 124 

Black Spots 116 

Black Silk 110 

Blankets 23 

Bleaching 17 

Blistering 90 

Blood Stains 83 

Blues 50 

Bluing 51 

Bluing Water, preparing 55 

Borax 65 

Board, ironing 42 

Calicoes 112 

Cambrics 113 

Cambric Ironing 113 

Camphor for Stains 71 

Care of Wringer , 36 

Cashmere, black 110 

Cashmere, white Ill 

Chamois Leather 103 

Chemicals 65 

131 



PAGE 

Chemical Action in Washing 62 

Chemicals in Laundry 58 

Chilling Hands \ 48 

Chocolate Stains 127 

Cigar Ashes 85 

Clay 63 

Clean Corsets 127 

Clean Felt Hat 116 

Clean Furniture 126 

Cleaning, dry 104 

Cleaning Gloves '-. 102 

Cleaning Shawls 109 

Cleanliness 6 

Cleansing Feathers 107 

Cleansing Fluid 128 

Cleansing Trousers 105 

Clothespins 48 

Cloth Curtains and Decorative Hangings 118 

Clothing, dampening 64 

Clothing, drying 88 

Clothing, fire-proof 106 

Clothing, freezing, wet 43 

Clothing, scorched 86 

Clothing, soaking 44 

Clothing, sponge, press 115 

Clothing, sprinkling 94 

Clothing, steam for washing 15 

Clothing, spots on 73 

Clothing, wet 39 

Clothing, to keep white 20 

Clothing, wi'inging 36 

Coat Collars 108 

Cocoa Stains 127 

Coffee Stains 74 

132 



PAGE 

Cold Starch, to make 94 

Cold Water Washing 104 

Collars, coat 108 

Color, yellow 19 

Coloring Curtains 89 

Colored Goods 27 

Colored Silk Cream 101 

Colors Fading, to prevent 88 

Colors, restoring 110 

Compound, washing 68 

Corsets, to clean 127 

Cotton Goods 115 

Cotton, pink 102 

Cotton Waists 114 

Cream Colored Silk 101 

Cream Satin 102 

Creasing Trousers 105 

Crepe, rusty 84 

Crude Sanitas 64 

Curtain Coloring 89 

Curtains 24 

Curtains, lace 122 

Curtains, decorative hangings 118 

Dampening Clothing 94 

Dampening Pad 42 

Decorative Hangings 118 

Diapers 11 

Dirt 9 

Disinfect Linen 69 

Disinfection 16 

Disinfectants 59 

Doing Laundry Work 5 

Do Not Mangle 40 

Do^vn, eider 112 

133 



PAGE 

Down, swan 's 107 

Drawn Work 119 

Dry Cleaning 104 

Drying of Clothing 38 

Eider DoAvn 112 

Embroideries 97 

Fabrics, light 114 

Fading Colors, to prevent 88 

Failures, starchy 94 

Feathers, cleaning 107 

Felt Hat, to clean 116 

Fire-proof Clothing 106 

Flannels, ironing 97 

Flannels, washing 121 

Flat-irons 56 

Freezing Wet Clothing 43 

Flour Sacks, remove lettering 116 

Flour Sacks, to clean 116 

Fluid, cleaning 128 

Folding 39 

Fruit Stains 73-75 

Furniture, to clean 126 

Gall 128 

Gasoline 62 

Ginghams 112 

Grass Stains 74 

Grease, axle 72 

Grease Stains 76 

Glazes, starch 93 

Gloves, cleaning 102 

Handkerchiefs 123 

Handkerchiefs and Diapers 11 

Handkerchiefs, lace 124 

Handkerchiefs, silk 100 

134 



PAGE 

Hats 108 

Hands, chilling 43 

Hangings, decorations 118 

Heat 18 

Hose, iron silk 97 

Hot Irons 57 

How to Disinfect Linen 69 

How to Use Chemicals in Laundry 58 

Indelible Ink 71 

Ink Stains 78 

Iodine 71 

Iron Flat 56 

Ironing 95 

Ironing Board 42 

Ironing Cambrics and Poplins 118 

Ironing Flannels 97 

Ironing Muslins 99 

Ironing Shirt Waists 98 

Ironing Silks 99 

Ironing "Wet Poplins, Silks, Etc 98 

Iron Rust 87 

Iron Silk Hose 97 

Iron Stands 57 

Iron Hot 57 

Iron Waxing 96 

Irons, self -heating 58 

Javelle Water , 67 

Juices, Stains 78 

Keep Clothing White 20 

Kerosene 63 

Lace, black 124 

Lace Curtains 123 

Lace Handkerchiefs 124 

Lace Washing 122 

185 



PAGE 

Lace, white silk 108 

Laundry, chemicals in 53 

Laundr}^, articles required 40 

Laundry Machines and Appliances 6 

Laundry Work, doing 5 

Lawns 114 

Leather, chamois 103 

Lemon Salts 66 

Light Fabrics 114 

Lime 61 

Linens, how to disinfect 69 

Linen, soiled table 26 

Localities 12 

Machine Rubbing or Hand Washing 32 

Machine Stains, sewing 85 

Machine Wringing 35 

Machines, laundry 6 

Me.chines, rinsing 34 

Machines, washing 30 

Make Cold Starch 94 

Making the Starch 92 

Mangle, do not 40 

Mangling 39 

Merino Ill 

Mats, zinc 127 

Mildew Stains 80 

Milk Stains 74 

Molasses Stains 72 

Mud Stains 82 

Muslins 113-114 

Muslins, Ironing 99 

Neckties, silk 113 

Organdies, wiiite 119 

Oxalic Acid 71 

136 



PAGE 

Pad, dampening 42 

Paint Stains 82 

Paraffine 60 

Paraffine Soap 127 

Perspiration 16 

Pink Cotton 102 

Pink Silk 101 

Pink Satins 102 

Polisiiing 98 

Pongee Silks 109 

Poplins 114 

Poplins, ironing wet 98 

Poplins, ironing 113 

Potatoes 128 

Preparing the Bluing Water 55 

Preparations for Starching 90 

Preparations for Washing 44 

Press Clothing 115 

Powders, soap 49 

Prevent Colors Fading 88 

Prints 112 

Quilts 120 

Raindrops 101 

Red Tablecloths 121 

Renovating Various Fabrics 110 

Restoring Colors , » . . 110 

Ribbons 113-115 

Ribbons, silk 113 

Rinsing 32 

Rinsing Machine 34 

Rosin : 63 

Rust, iron 87 

Rusty Crepe 84 

Salt 69 

137 



PAGE 

Salts, Lemon 66 

Salts of Sorrel 128 

Sanitas, crude 64 

Satins 102 

Satins, cream 102 

Satins, pink 102 

Satins, white 102 

Scorched Clothing 86 

Self -heating Irons 58 

Serge Ill 

Sewing Machine Stains 85 

Shawls, cleaning 109 

Shawls, washing woolen 117 

Shrinkage of Silk 109 

Shirt Waists, ironing 98 

Silk, black 100 

Silk, cream colored 101 

Silk Handkerchiefs 100 

Silk Hose, to iron 97 

Silk Neckties, Ribbons, Muslins, Etc 113 

Silk, pink 101 

Silk Waists 101 

Silk, white 100 

Silk, white lace 108 

Silks 125 

Silks, ironing 99 

Silks, ironing wet 98 

Silks, pongee 109 

Silks, shrinkage of 109 

Silks, washing 125 

Soaking of clothing : 44 

Soap 47 

Soap Paraffine 127 

Soap Powders ; 49 

138 



PxVGE 

Socks 117 

Soda (see Alkalies) 59 

Soiling of Table Linen and Other Linen 26 

Sorrel, salts of 128 

Sponge Clothing 115 

Spots, black 116 

Spots on Clothing 73 

Sprinkling or Dampening of Clothing 94 

Stains 70 

Stains, acid 70 

Stains, blood 83 

Stains, camphor for 71 

Stains, chocolate 127 

Stains, cocoa . 127 

Stains, coffee 74 

Stains, fruit 73-75 

Stains, grass 74 

Stains, grease 76 

Stains, ink 78 

Stains, juices 73 

Stains, mildew , 80 

Stains, milk " 74 

Stains, molasses 72 

Stains, mud 82 

Stains, paint 82 

Stains, tar 84 

Stains, tea 74 

Stains, sewing machine 85 

Stains, sugar 72 

Stains, syrup 72 

Stains, varnish 85 

Stains, vinegar 73 

Stains, water , 73 

Stains, wine 73 

139 



PAGE 

Starch 90 

Starch, cold, to make 94 

Starch Glazes 93 

Starch Making 92 

Starch Surfaces 93 

Starches 55 

Starching 91 

Starching, preparations for 90 

Starchy Failures 94 

Steam for Washing Clothing 15 

Steam, washing by 14 

Stockings 117 

Sugar Stains 72 

Suits, summer 104 

Summer Suits 104 

Surfaces, starch 93 

Swan 's Down » . . 107 

Sweaters, washing 116 

Syrup Stains 72 

Tablecloths, red 121 

Table Linen, soiling 26 

Tallow 63 

Tar Stains 84 

Tear and Wear 20 

Tea Stains 74 

Towels 106 

Trousers, creasing 105 

Turpentine 69 

Varnish Stains 85 

Velvets 115 

Vinegar Stains 73 

Waists, cotton 114 

Waists, ironing shirt 98 

Waists, silk • 101 

140 



PAGE 

"WsLshing 28 

'Washing, chemical action 62 

Washing, cold water 104 

Washing, colored goods 27 

Washing Compound 68 

Washing Flannels 121 

Washing by Hand 32 

Washing Laces 122 

Washing Machines 30 

Washing, preparations for 44 

Washing Silks 125 

Washing by Steam 14 

Washing Sweaters 116 

Washing Woolen Shawls 117 

Water 12 

Water, preparing bluing 55 

Water, javelle 67 

Water Stains 73 

Waxing Irons 96 

Wear and Tear 20 

Wet Clothing 39 

Wet Clothing Freezing 43 

White Cashmere Ill 

White Clothing, to keep 20 

White, Felt Hat, to clean 116 

White Organdies 119 

White Satins 102 

White Silk 100 

White Silk Lace 108 

Wine Stains 73 

Woolens 21 

Woolen Shawls, washing 117 

Work, drawn . 119 

Work, laundry 5 

141 



PAGE 

Wringer, care of 36 

Wringing Clothing 36 

Wringing Machine 35 

Yellow Color li) 

Zinc Mats 127 



142 



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